Formulation and Routine Advice for Combination Skin with Acne and Wrinkles

Question

I have combination skin that is dehydrated, retains moisture poorly, has some wrinkles, slight oiliness in the T-zone, and small blackheads on the nose and chin. My desired toner should feel moisturizing but not sticky after wiping. Regarding the toner, can I consider adding Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Timed Release BHA) to it? Or should I not mix it into the toner but instead use it in a facial cleanser for reducing clogged pores? For my nighttime routine, after cleansing, I use toner followed by Vitamin C E Ferulic. If I apply a night cream afterward, how many minutes should I wait? Also, should the night cream avoid containing Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Formulation Advice for Combination, Dehydrated Skin with Mild Acne and Wrinkles

Based on your skin type (combination, dehydrated, with some wrinkles and small blackheads) and your questions about incorporating BHA and your nighttime routine, here is some guidance:

Adding BHA (Salicylic Acid) to Your Toner

Adding Encapsulated Salicylic Acid to your current toner formulation is generally not recommended. This is because introducing Salicylic Acid can alter the pH of the product, potentially leading to instability and reduced effectiveness of some ingredients in your existing toner.

Instead, if you wish to use BHA for addressing small blackheads, it is suggested to create a separate wash-off BHA toner. You can achieve this by mixing Encapsulated Salicylic Acid with Purified Water. Apply this mixture to the affected areas (like the nose and chin) and leave it on for about 15 minutes before rinsing off. Adjust the frequency and duration of use based on your skin's response and the amount of blackheads.

Nighttime Skincare Routine

Your current routine of using toner followed by Vitamin C E Ferulic is a good approach for addressing wrinkles and providing antioxidant benefits.

If you choose to apply a night cream after the Vitamin C E Ferulic serum, it is advisable to wait at least 30 minutes before applying the cream. This allows the serum sufficient time to absorb properly into the skin.

Regarding the night cream's ingredients, it is recommended that your night cream should not contain Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) when used in the same routine as Vitamin C E Ferulic. This is to avoid potential interactions or reduced efficacy between these ingredients when applied closely together.