Formulation and Testing Questions: Baby Lotion, Face Cream, and SPF

Asked by: aon.ohn On: December 26, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have questions regarding the formulation and testing of different cosmetic products:

  1. Baby Lotion Formula: I have a formula based on Johnson's Baby Lotion:

    • Water
    • Glycerin 10%
    • Isopropyl Myristate 5%
    • Milk Lotion Maker 4%
    • ClayThick 1.5%
    • Mineral Oil 5%
    • Dimethicone Light 10%
    • Fragrance 0.5%
    • Allantoin 0.2%

    Is this formula feasible to make, and is it suitable and gentle enough for babies? Specifically, is Isopropyl Myristate suitable for baby products?

  2. Face Cream Formula (Day and Night): I'm developing a face cream with the following ingredients:

    • Water
    • Soy Lecithin 10%
    • Xanthan Gum (clear gel type) 3%
    • Oryzanol (Rice Bran Extract) 0.5%
    • French Pine Bark Extract 25 (Liquid) 2%
    • Rice Vitamin 2%
    • SKIN-DEFENSE® V 2%
    • WhiteCumin™ 2x 3%
    • Wakame Extract (Brown Sea Weed) 3%
    • Allantoin 0.5%
    • LipidSoft™ Palm 5%
    • NaturePreserve™ (Gluconolactone) 1.25%

    Can this formula achieve a cream texture using Soy Lecithin 10% and Xanthan Gum 3%? Will this combination provide stability and the desired texture? Also, can this formula be claimed as having "no chemicals"?

  3. SPF Testing: I understand that the Department of Medical Sciences tests for the amount of sunscreen ingredients. How can I test the actual SPF value of my finished product (in vivo testing)? What is the typical process and cost for such testing, and how long does it usually take?

Answer

Formulation Feedback

Baby Lotion Formula (Reference Johnson's Baby Lotion)

Based on the formula you provided:

  • Water
  • Glycerin 10%
  • Isopropyl Myristate 5%
  • Milk Lotion Maker™ 4%
  • ClayThick™ 1.5%
  • Mineral Oil 5%
  • Dimethicone Light 10%
  • Fragrance 0.5%
  • Allantoin 0.2%

This formula is generally feasible to make. However, regarding its gentleness for babies, it's important to note that Isopropyl Myristate can potentially cause skin irritation in some individuals. Therefore, it is not recommended for use in products for babies.

For a baby lotion, it would be better to replace Isopropyl Myristate with other gentle oils such as Mineral Oil (which is already in your formula) or Fractionated Coconut Oil.

The rest of the ingredients in your formula are suitable for a baby lotion. Allantoin is beneficial for reducing irritation and supporting skin tissue repair, and Glycerin helps with moisture. Milk Lotion Maker™ and ClayThick™ will help create the lotion texture, and Dimethicone Light provides a smooth feel.

Face Cream Formula (Day and Night)

Based on the formula you provided:

  • Water
  • Soy Lecithin 10%
  • Xanthan Gum (clear gel type) 3%
  • Oryzanol (Rice Bran Extract) 0.5%
  • French Pine Bark Extract 25 (Liquid) 2%
  • Rice Vitamin 2%
  • SKIN-DEFENSE® V 2%
  • WhiteCumin™ 2x 3%
  • Wakame Extract (Brown Sea Weed) 3%
  • Allantoin 0.5%
  • LipidSoft™ Palm 5%
  • NaturePreserve™ (Gluconolactone) 1.25%

Regarding the feasibility of this formula achieving a cream texture:

  • Using Xanthan Gum at 3% is a high concentration and will likely result in a thick, sticky, or lumpy gel texture rather than a smooth cream. It is recommended to use Xanthan Gum at a lower concentration, around 1-1.5%.
  • Soy Lecithin alone at 10% is generally not sufficient to create a stable cream texture in this type of formula. It is typically used as a co-emulsifier.

To achieve a stable cream texture, it is recommended to use a suitable cream maker. For this type of formula, using Satin Cream Maker™ at 1.5% in combination with Xanthan Gum at 1% would be effective in creating a stable and pleasant cream texture.

The other active ingredients like Oryzanol, French Pine Bark Extract, Rice Vitamin, SKIN-DEFENSE® V, WhiteCumin™ 2x, Wakame Extract, and Allantoin are beneficial for skin care, offering properties like antioxidant effects, anti-aging, moisturizing, and irritation reduction. LipidSoft™ Palm provides emollience, and NaturePreserve™ acts as a preservative.

Regarding your question about claiming "no chemicals":
Whether you can claim "no chemicals" depends on the definition of "chemical". While many ingredients in your formula are derived from natural sources (like Xanthan Gum from bacterial fermentation, Oryzanol from rice bran, extracts from plants), they undergo processing. From a strict chemical perspective, all substances are chemicals. From a marketing perspective, "no chemicals" often implies avoiding synthetic compounds or harsh ingredients. Ingredients like Xanthan Gum, even though derived naturally, are produced through a controlled process. Therefore, claiming "no chemicals" might be misleading depending on the consumer's understanding and regulatory guidelines. It is more accurate to describe the formula as containing a high percentage of naturally derived ingredients or being free from specific types of synthetic chemicals you wish to avoid.

SPF Testing

You mentioned that the Department of Medical Sciences tests for the amount of sunscreen ingredients rather than the final SPF value.

If you need to test the actual SPF value of your finished product, you would need to find a laboratory that offers in vivo SPF testing (testing on human subjects), as this is the standard method for determining SPF. Testing the amount of sunscreen ingredients in a formula is different from testing the final product's SPF efficacy.

For SPF testing services at a price around 1,000 Baht with approximately 30 days turnaround time, you can contact care@myskinrecipes.com. They can help facilitate testing through their partner laboratories at this special rate.