Formulation Challenges: Encapsulated BHA in Witch Hazel/Hydroxyethyl Cellulose Gel and Silky Serum Base

Question

Based on the previous discussion about potential precipitation when combining Witch Hazel and Hydroxyethyl Cellulose for a gel base, I have two questions:

1. Is it possible to create a clear gel using a high percentage of Witch Hazel and Hydroxyethyl Cellulose? What are the challenges involved, considering the need for heat to dissolve Hydroxyethyl Cellulose and the heat sensitivity of Witch Hazel?
2. Can Silky Serum Base be used with Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (BHA)? If so, what kind of texture will result (e.g., clear gel or something else)?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Compatibility of Bases with Encapsulated BHA

Regarding your question about using Silky Serum Base with Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (BHA), based on the previous discussion:

Silky Serum Base is compatible with Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (BHA).
However, using Silky Serum Base will result in a product with a white serum texture, not a clear gel.

Regarding your initial question about using Witch Hazel as a base with Hydroxyethyl Cellulose to create a gel:

Using heat (60°C) to dissolve Hydroxyethylethyl Cellulose is necessary, but applying heat to Witch Hazel can degrade its quality, even if visually it seems unchanged.
There is also a potential issue with Witch Hazel causing Hydroxyethyl Cellulose to precipitate or clump, as mentioned in a previous reply.
Furthermore, Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (BHA) is incompatible with several common thickeners, and while it can work with Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, the issues with Witch Hazel and heat make this combination challenging for a stable, clear gel base containing a high percentage of Witch Hazel.

In summary, while Silky Serum Base works with Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (BHA), it won't yield a clear gel. Creating a clear gel base with a high percentage of Witch Hazel and Hydroxyethyl Cellulose is difficult due to the heat sensitivity of Witch Hazel and potential compatibility issues between Witch Hazel and the thickener, as well as the incompatibility of Encapsulated BHA with many other thickeners.