Formulation challenges when adding Vitamin C, E, and Ferulic Acid to a cream base

Asked by: armylove7899 On: September 18, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have an existing cream base containing:

  • Vitamin B3
  • N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine
  • Aloe Vera
  • Vitamin B6
  • Vitamin E

I would like to add the following ingredients to this base:

  • L-ascorbic acid (15%)
  • Vitamin E
  • Ferulic Acid (1%)

Are there any issues with the stability or compatibility of these ingredients when added to my cream base, considering the existing components? How can I successfully incorporate them?

Answer

Formulation Advice for Adding Vitamin C, E, and Ferulic Acid to Your Cream

Based on your question and the ingredients in your existing cream base (Vitamin B3, N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine, Aloe Vera, Vitamin B6, Vitamin E), directly adding L-ascorbic acid, Vitamin E, and Ferulic Acid as you described is not recommended due to significant stability and compatibility challenges.

Here's why:

  • L-Ascorbic Acid Stability: L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) is highly unstable, especially when dissolved in water and mixed with other ingredients. It requires a very specific, low pH environment (ideally 2.0-4.0) to remain stable and effective. Your existing cream base contains ingredients like Vitamin B3, N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine, and Vitamin B6, which are typically stable at higher pH ranges (around 3-8). Introducing 15% L-ascorbic acid would drastically lower the pH, potentially destabilizing the ingredients already in your cream and reducing their effectiveness. This low pH could also cause skin irritation.
  • Ferulic Acid Solubility: Ferulic Acid is not water-soluble and requires a solvent like Ethoxydiglycol. As noted previously, 1% Ethoxydiglycol is likely insufficient to fully dissolve 1% Ferulic Acid. You would need a higher concentration of Ethoxydiglycol, but its usage rate in cosmetic formulas is limited by regulations.
  • Ingredient Compatibility: Mixing these active ingredients into a pre-existing, potentially complex cream base can lead to unpredictable interactions, affecting the stability, efficacy, and safety of the final product.

To achieve a stable and effective formula containing L-ascorbic acid, Vitamin E, and Ferulic Acid, it is best to use a specially developed base or a pre-formulated product designed for this combination. The Vitamin C E Ferulic kit is an example of a system specifically formulated to stabilize L-ascorbic acid with Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid.

Attempting to add these sensitive ingredients to a general cream base is likely to result in rapid degradation of the Vitamin C, rendering the product ineffective.

Therefore, instead of trying to modify your existing cream, consider using a separate, stable serum or product that already contains a properly formulated blend of Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), Vitamin E, and Ferulic Acid.