Formulation Evaluation for Brightening, Clarity, and Firmness

Let's evaluate the proposed formulation and the suggested additions for achieving bright, clear, and firm skin.

Suitability of Azelaic Acid 10%

Based on the product information for Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™), using it at a concentration of 10% is suitable for your goals, even if you don't have melasma. This ingredient is effective for:

• Skin brightening and reducing dark spots: It has been shown to lighten skin tone.
• Reducing oiliness and controlling sebum production: It helps regulate the oil glands.
• Reducing clogged pores and acne: Its oil control properties make it suitable for acne-prone skin.

It's a water-soluble form that is gentler than traditional Azelaic Acid, but it's still recommended to avoid direct sunlight during use as it can have exfoliating properties.

Evaluation of the Original Formulation and Suggested Additions

• Original Formulation: Nanowhite 5%, Azelaic Acid 10%, DMAE 10%, Aloe Vera Gel 75%.

  • Nanowhite 5%: While a specific product named "Nanowhite" at 5% wasn't clearly identified in the search, assuming it's a general term for a whitening complex, it contributes to skin brightening.
  • Azelaic Acid 10%: As discussed, this is effective for whitening, oil control, and acne.
  • DMAE 10%: DMAE (SkinTight MD™) is known for its skin tightening and anti-wrinkle effects. However, using it at 10% is the maximum recommended rate and may cause skin irritation and a sticky feeling. The recommended usage is typically around 3%.
  • Aloe Vera Gel 75%: This serves as an excellent base, providing moisture, soothing properties, and reducing irritation.

• Suggested Additions (Vitamin B3 and N-Acetyl Glucosamine): Adding Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) and N-Acetyl Glucosamine (Acetyl Glucosamine) is highly recommended. These two ingredients work synergistically to enhance skin brightening and reduce dark spots. Vitamin B3 also offers additional benefits like improving skin barrier function, reducing redness, and controlling oil.

• Revised Formulation (with weights): Nanowhite 5g, Azelaic Acid 10g, DMAE 10g, Aloe Vera Gel 120g, Repair Activator 5g, N-Acetyl Glucosamine 4g, Vitamin B3 2g. (Total approx. 156g)

  • This formulation incorporates the beneficial additions. Based on the total weight, the percentages are approximately:
    • Azelaic Acid: ~6.4% (Still effective, but slightly lower than the original 10%)
    • DMAE: ~6.4% (Lower than original 10%, potentially less irritating but still above the generally recommended 3%)
    • Vitamin B3: ~1.3% (Lower than the recommended 5% for optimal whitening/oil control)
    • N-Acetyl Glucosamine: ~2.6% (Within the recommended range, especially when paired with B3)
    • Repair Activator: ~3.2% (Below the recommended minimum of 5% for DNA repair benefits)
  • The staff's suggestion to increase Vitamin B3 to 5% (approximately 6g in 120g gel base, or about 7.8g in this ~156g total formulation) is a good idea to maximize its benefits for whitening and oil control.

Recommendations

1. The combination of Azelaic Acid, Vitamin B3, and N-Acetyl Glucosamine is excellent for achieving brighter and clearer skin and controlling oil/acne.
2. Consider reducing the concentration of DMAE from 10% to 3-5% to minimize potential irritation and stickiness, while still getting tightening benefits.
3. Increase the concentration of Vitamin B3 (Safe-B3™) to 5% as suggested by the staff for enhanced whitening and oil control.
4. If you want to maximize the DNA repair benefits of Repair Activator, consider increasing its concentration to at least 5%.
5. Use Aloe Vera Gel (either Heavy or Lite) as the base as planned.

Mixing and Storage Tips

• Add powdered ingredients like Vitamin B3 and N-Acetyl Glucosamine to the Aloe Vera Gel base at room temperature and stir until dissolved.
• Add liquid ingredients like Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™), DMAE (SkinTight MD™), and Repair Activator in the final step, ensuring the mixture temperature is below 40°C.
• Store Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) and Repair Activator in the refrigerator for long-term storage. Other ingredients can typically be stored at room temperature away from sunlight and heat.

This formulation, especially with adjustments to Vitamin B3 and potentially DMAE/Repair Activator concentrations, appears well-suited for your skin goals.