Formulation Evaluation for High-End Lip Gloss (Sisley Paris Le Phyto Gloss Style)

Question

Hi - I'm trying to formulate a high end lip gloss - on par with Sisley Paris Le Phyto Gloss.
I have these ingredients and wondering if you could evaluate them and suggest if I've chosen comparable products that will perform similarly and if there are any changes you'd make. Thank you.

Ingredient	Percentage (%)
Hydrogenated Polyisobutane	31.00%
Polybutene	13.50%
Hydrogenated Polydecene	11.00%
Bis‑Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate‑2	9.50%
Diisostearyl Malate	8.50%
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate	4.00%
Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate	2.00%
Ethylhexyl Palmitate	0.50%
Tridecyl Trimellitate	5.00%
DIPALMITOYL HYDROXYPROLINE (needs to be heated to 80-85 deg)	0.50%
Hydrogenated Poly (C6-14 Olefin) Gel	4.00%
Silica Dimethyl Silylate	0.30%
Pigment blends for each shade of Mica and Synthetic Fluorphlogopite + Red, yellow and/or black Iron Oxide + Lake 7 or 28 dispersed in Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate	6.50%
Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate copolymer	1.50%
Boron Nitride	0.70%
Lauroyl lysine	0.20%
Fruit Oil (Strawberry, Raspberry, Sweet Cherry, Plum, Blackberry, Cranberry, Watermelon - 1 for each lip gloss shade)	0.90%
Flavour Oil	0.30%
Vitamin E	0.10%
TOTAL	100.00%

Answer 1

Your formulation is highly sophisticated and well-aligned with high-end lip gloss standards like Sisley Paris Le Phyto Gloss. You have selected a complex blend of high-refractive index esters and hydrocarbons that will provide the "cushion," long-wear, and intense shine characteristic of luxury products.

Ingredient Evaluation & MySkinRecipes Equivalents

Your choices are excellent. Below are the specific matches from our catalog that will perform similarly to your requested INCI list:

Base Hydrocarbons:
- Hydrogenated Polyisobutene: Use Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (300cs) for a balanced cushion and shine.
- Polybutene: Polybutene (2400 MW) provides the necessary tack and high-gloss film.
- Hydrogenated Polydecene: Hydrogenated Poly (C6-14 Olefin) adds a smooth, non-greasy slip.
High-Shine & Texture Esters:
- Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2: LipidSoft™ Lanolin is a vegan lanolin substitute that offers superior adhesion and lip-softening properties.
- Diisostearyl Malate: LipidSoft™ Disperse is the industry standard for dispersing pigments while adding high shine.
- Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate: Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate is a high-viscosity ester that creates a rich, glossy film.
- Tridecyl Trimellitate: LipidSoft™ Film provides a "filming" effect for long-lasting wear.
- Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate: LipidSoft™ Heavy adds weight and a clear sensation on the lips.
Specialty Additives:
- Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate copolymer: Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate copolymer (Extra Gloss) is your key ingredient for that "glass-like" finish and moisture retention.
- Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline: Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline (DPHP) is a premium lip-plumping and anti-aging active.
- Boron Nitride & Lauroyl Lysine: WhiteMatte3™ and AminoSilk™ provide a luxurious, silky skin feel and a subtle soft-focus effect.
- Gelling Agent: Hydrogenated Poly (C6-14 Olefin) Gel ensures pigment suspension and stability.

Suggested Changes & Formulation Tips

Increase Extra Gloss™: Your current usage of Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate copolymer (Extra Gloss) is 1.5%. For a truly "high-end" glassy look similar to Sisley, consider increasing this to 5-10%. It significantly improves the shine and the "comfortable" feel on the lips.
Heating Phase: Ensure you heat the oil phase containing Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline (DPHP) to 80-85°C until completely clear. If it is not fully dissolved, the gloss may feel gritty.
Pigment Dispersion: Since you are using Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate as a base for your pigments, you might find our ReadyMix™ series (e.g., ReadyMix™ D&C Red No.28 Lake) very helpful. These are pre-dispersed pigments in that exact base, ensuring a perfectly smooth color without the need for heavy milling.
Stability: Oil-Fix™ O (Silica Dimethyl Silylate) at 0.3% is quite low. If you find the pigments settling over time, increase this to 1-2% to create a more robust gel network.
Antioxidant: Use Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol) to protect the natural fruit oils from oxidation.

Summary of Key Ingredients

Film Former/Shine: Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate copolymer (Extra Gloss)
Plumping Active: Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline (DPHP)
Vegan Lanolin: LipidSoft™ Lanolin
High Viscosity Base: Polybutene (2400 MW)
Texture Enhancers: AminoSilk™ and WhiteMatte3™