Formulation Feedback: Day Cream, Night Cream, and Moisture Gel for Oily, Dehydrated, Acne-Prone Skin with Whitening Goal

Subject: Feedback on Day Cream, Night Cream, and Moisture Gel Formulations for Whitening and Oily/Dehydrated/Acne-Prone Skin

Thank you for sharing your formulations and providing additional context about your skin type and goals. Based on your aim for whitening and managing oily, dehydrated, acne-prone skin, here is some feedback on your proposed formulas:

General Considerations:

• You mentioned your skin is oily but dehydrated. This often indicates a compromised skin barrier, possibly due to harsh products. While controlling oil is important, ensuring adequate hydration and soothing ingredients is key to preventing dehydration and supporting barrier repair.
• Your goal is whitening. The ingredients you've chosen in the Day and Night creams (Nanowhite, Delentigo, N-Acetyl-D, Vitamin B3, Azelaic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Alpha-Arbutin, Licorice Extract in the gel) are generally known for their brightening or pigment-reducing properties. Using a combination can be effective.

Day Cream Formulation:

• Whitening: Contains multiple active whitening ingredients (Nanowhite, Delentigo, N-Acetyl-D, Vitamin B3). This combination should contribute to your whitening goal.
• Oily/Acne-Prone Skin: Zinc PCA is a good addition for oil control and has some antibacterial properties, which can be beneficial for acne.
• Texture/Emulsification: You have both Light Cream Maker (likely an emulsifier/thickener) and Pro Polymer (a thickener/gelling agent). As mentioned in the previous reply, using both might be redundant or affect the texture in unexpected ways. Light Cream Maker alone, potentially at a higher percentage, might be sufficient to create a cream texture.
• Apricot Oil (10%): For oily skin, 10% oil might indeed feel heavy or greasy, even if the skin is dehydrated. Your proposal to reduce it to 2% seems reasonable for oily skin aiming for a non-greasy feel. You might need to adjust the Light Cream Maker percentage if you significantly reduce the oil phase.
• Overall: The active ingredients align with your goals. Adjusting the oil percentage and potentially simplifying the emulsification/thickening system (using only Light Cream Maker) would likely improve the texture for oily skin.

Night Cream Formulation:

• Whitening: Contains Azelaic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C ester), and Alpha-Arbutin, all known for brightening effects. Azelaic Acid also has benefits for acne and redness.
• Oily/Acne-Prone Skin: Azelaic Acid is excellent for acne, reducing inflammation and preventing clogged pores. L-Carnitine, as discussed, helps control sebum production, which can indirectly help with acne, particularly clogged pores. Using it alongside your Salicylic Acid toner (a BHA) is acceptable; they target different aspects of acne/oil control (BHA exfoliates within the pore, L-Carnitine reduces oil production).
• L-Carnitine vs. Tranexamic Acid: As noted previously, L-Carnitine and Tranexamic Acid have different primary functions. Tranexamic Acid is primarily for reducing hyperpigmentation (like melasma) and redness. L-Carnitine is for oil control and cell turnover. While L-Carnitine has some exfoliation/turnover effects, it's not a direct substitute for Tranexamic Acid's pigment-inhibiting action. If your primary goal is whitening (especially targeting dark spots), Tranexamic Acid would be more direct, but L-Carnitine still offers benefits for your oily/acne-prone skin.
• Texture/Emulsification: Similar to the Day Cream, you have both Light Cream Maker and Pro Polymer. Azelaic Acid can sometimes affect emulsion stability or viscosity, as mentioned previously. You might need to increase the Light Cream Maker percentage to achieve the desired cream texture, especially if you reduce the oil phase.
• Apricot Oil (10%): Again, 10% oil might be too heavy for oily skin. Reducing it to 2% is a good approach for a less greasy feel.
• Overall: A strong formula for both whitening and acne/oil control due to Azelaic Acid and L-Carnitine. Adjusting the oil and potentially the Light Cream Maker percentage is recommended for texture.

Moisture Gel Formulation:

• Hydration/Soothing: This formula is rich in hydrating and soothing ingredients (Sea Kelp, Vitamin B5, Applecell, Aloe Vera, Snail Secretion, Water Lock, Allantoin, Licorice Extract). This is excellent for addressing the "dehydrated" aspect of your skin.
• Whitening: Licorice Extract also has brightening properties.
• Texture/Gelling: Pro Polymer is suitable for creating a gel texture.
• Suitability for Oily Skin: Gel textures are generally well-suited for oily skin as they are typically lighter and less occlusive than creams. The hydrating ingredients will help balance the skin without adding excess oil.
• Overall: This gel formula seems very appropriate for providing hydration and soothing benefits to oily, dehydrated skin, and offers some additional brightening from Licorice Extract.

Summary Recommendations:

1. Oil Percentage: Reducing Apricot Oil to 2% in both Day and Night creams is a good strategy for oily skin to achieve a less greasy feel.
2. Emulsification/Thickening: Consider using only Light Cream Maker in the creams and potentially increasing its percentage, especially if reducing the oil or including ingredients like Azelaic Acid or Zinc PCA that can affect viscosity. Use Pro Polymer for the gel.
3. L-Carnitine: It's a suitable addition for oil control and supporting acne management in your Night Cream, even alongside a BHA toner. While not a direct substitute for Tranexamic Acid for pigmentation, it offers relevant benefits for your skin type.
4. Moisture Gel: This formula looks very suitable for your skin type, providing needed hydration and soothing without being heavy.

Remember that formulation often requires testing and adjustment to get the texture and feel exactly right for your preference. Good luck!