Formulation feedback for acne, melasma, and dark spots on combination skin
Question
I am developing a formulation for combination skin to address acne scars, melasma, dark spots, and acne. I would like to request a review of this formulation and guidance on potential issues or improvements.
My formulation includes:
- Tea Tree Oil (2%)
- Salicylic Acid (3%)
- Paste Maker (25%)
- Other ingredients such as Repair Activator™ (Bifida Ferment Lysate), Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Sodium Hyaluronate, and Tocopheryl Acetate.
- Water content is approximately 31.3%.
Please provide feedback on this formulation.
Answer
Feedback on your formulation for acne scars, melasma, dark spots, and acne (combination skin)
Thank you for sharing your formulation. The staff has reviewed it and provided helpful feedback. Here's a summary of their points:
- Too many ingredients: The formula contains too many ingredients and cannot be mixed as proposed.
- Water content: For combination skin, the water phase should be around 70-75% for a suitable texture. Your formula has only 31.3% water, which will likely result in a heavy, sticky texture.
- Ingredient Concentrations: Some ingredients are used at concentrations that are too high or require a different form:
- Tea Tree Oil: The staff recommends not exceeding 0.5% for facial use to avoid irritation. Your formula uses 2%.
- Salicylic Acid: 3% is a high concentration, and the standard form (ID 148) is not directly soluble in this formula. The staff recommends using Salicylic Acid EZ (ID 766) at 3%, or up to 5% if you have many clogged pores.
- Ingredient Relevance: Several ingredients in your list are not specifically targeted towards your stated concerns (acne scars, melasma, dark spots, acne). These include Bifida Ferment Lysate (Repair Activator™ - ID 259), Hydrolyzed Milk Protein (ID 972), Sodium Hyaluronate (ID 105), and Tocopheryl Acetate (ID 65). The staff suggests focusing on ingredients that directly address your skin issues.
- Emulsifier: Paste Maker™ (ID 1129) at 25% is too high and is suitable for thick textures like masks, not a general skincare cream. The staff recommends using an emulsifier like Satin Cream Maker (ID 247) at 1-2% for a more appropriate texture.
Recommendation:
To create an effective and stable formula for your concerns (acne scars, melasma, dark spots, acne on combination skin), it's best to simplify the formula and focus on key active ingredients at appropriate concentrations. Ensure the water phase is sufficient for your skin type and use a suitable emulsifier.
Please consider the staff's feedback when revising your formulation.
Related Products Mentioned
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Salicylic Acid (BHA, Pharma Grade)
Tea Tree Oil (Extra Grade)
Satin Cream Maker™
Salicylic Acid EZ™ (ชนิดละลายน้ำ)