Formulation Feedback

Face Cream (Brightening, Oily/Dehydrated, Dark Spots)

Your initial formula had an insufficient oil phase for a cream texture. Your proposed modification to add 3% Shea Butter (Ultra Soft) and increase Coenzyme Q10 to 5% (assuming oil-soluble powder) results in an 8% oil phase, which should allow for emulsification into a cream.

• Texture: With an 8% oil phase including Shea Butter, the cream will feel moisturizing. While Shea Butter (Ultra Soft) is processed for a better feel, it's still an oil, so it might feel richer than a very light cream, but should not be excessively sticky. The final feel will depend on the specific "Light Cream Marker" emulsifier you are using.
• Active Ingredients:
  • Alpha Arbutin (2%), Acetyl Glucosamine (4%), and Niacinamide (3%) are excellent choices for brightening and addressing dark spots, working synergistically.
  • Centella (Madecassoside) (2%) is great for soothing and skin repair.
  • Coenzyme Q10 (5%): Please verify the recommended usage rate for the specific type of Coenzyme Q10 you are using. If it is the oil-soluble powder form, 5% is significantly higher than the typical recommended rate (0.01-0.5%). Using a water-soluble form or adjusting the percentage based on the product's specifications is advised.
• pH: Ensure the final pH of the cream is between 4.0-6.5 for optimal stability and efficacy of the active ingredients like Alpha Arbutin, Niacinamide, and Madecassoside.

Moisturizing Lotion

Your lotion formula is structurally sound but requires adjustment of the emulsifier.

• Disodium EDTA: It is highly recommended to add Disodium EDTA (0.1-0.2%) if you are not using distilled water. This helps stabilize the formula by chelating metal ions that can interfere with ingredients like Sodium Lactate and Green Tea Extract.
• Emulsifier (Light Cream Marker): As noted by the staff, 1% Light Cream Marker is likely insufficient due to the presence of ingredients like Sodium Lactate and Urea that can reduce viscosity. You should gradually increase the amount of Light Cream Marker (likely needing 2-3%) while mixing until you achieve the desired lotion consistency and stability.
• Urea (5%): 5% Urea is effective for moisturizing. If your skin is not very dry, you might find a lower percentage sufficient, or consider incorporating other NMF components like Sodium PCA or Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids for a more balanced hydration profile, as suggested in the feedback.
• Green Tea Extract (5%): If using Hi-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract), 5% is within the recommended range for antioxidant benefits. Please note that Green Tea Extract can be sensitive to light and metal ions.

Always perform small test batches and stability testing for your formulations.