Formulation for Acne & Skin Barrier: Texture and R&D Inquiry

Asked by: thanann_n On: March 13, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I want to create a product to reduce acne and strengthen the skin.

The active ingredients are as follows:

1. 4D Hyaluronic Acid
2. Ceramide 2 (Ceramide NG)
3. Phospholipid
4. Cholesterol
5. Calendula Extract (Water Soluble)
6. Rice Vitamin
7. Allantoin
8. Natural Bisabolol
9. Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™
10. Rhamnose (น้ำตาลแรมโนส)
11. Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%)
12. Phytosphingosine

What texture should this product have?

If I want to submit a formula for manufacturing and have R&D select the solvent, how can I do that?

Answer

Suitable Product Texture

Considering the properties of the active ingredients you've chosen:

  • Many ingredients like 4D Hyaluronic Acid, Calendula Extract, Rice Vitamin, Allantoin, Panthenol, Rhamnose, and Licorice Extract are water-soluble.
  • Ingredients crucial for skin barrier repair such as Ceramide 2, Phospholipid, Cholesterol, Natural Bisabolol, and Phytosphingosine are oil-soluble or require dispersion in both water and oil phases.

To effectively incorporate both water-soluble and oil-soluble components, an emulsion-based product is most suitable. This means a texture like a lotion or a cream would work well.

  • Lotion: Generally lighter and less oily, suitable for skin prone to acne while still providing hydration and barrier support.
  • Cream: Provides a richer texture, which can be beneficial for strengthening the skin barrier, especially if the skin is also dry or compromised.

An emulsion serum is also a possibility, offering a lighter feel than a traditional cream or lotion while still allowing for the inclusion of both types of ingredients. A simple gel texture would be challenging as it cannot effectively incorporate the oil-soluble components.

Submitting a Formula to R&D

If you wish to submit a formula to R&D and have them select the appropriate solvent, you would typically need to provide them with:

  1. List of Active Ingredients: Clearly list all the active ingredients you intend to use, including their desired concentrations if you have them.
  2. Product Goals: Specify the primary goals of the product (e.g., reduce acne, strengthen skin barrier, moisturize).
  3. Desired Product Texture: Indicate your preferred texture (e.g., light lotion, richer cream, serum).
  4. Target Audience/Skin Type: Mention the intended users (e.g., oily acne-prone skin, sensitive skin, dry skin).
  5. Any Specific Requirements: Include any other considerations, such as desired feel on the skin, natural vs. synthetic preferences, or specific certifications.

The R&D team would then use this information to:

  • Assess the compatibility and solubility of your chosen active ingredients.
  • Select appropriate solvents, emulsifiers, and base ingredients to create a stable and effective formulation that achieves your product goals and desired texture.
  • Develop a prototype formula for your review.

You would need to contact the R&D service provider directly to discuss their specific process for formula development and ingredient selection.