Formulation for Dark Spots and Clogged Pores: Compatibility, Texture, and Efficacy

ถามโดย: fristkiss001 เมื่อ: April 20, 2019 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I am creating a formulation with the following ingredients and percentages:

  • Water (62.85%)
  • Hyaluronic Acid 2%
  • Safe B3 4%
  • B6 2%
  • Zinc PCA 1%
  • GlucoBright 4%
  • Alpha Arbutin 1%
  • Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids 1%
  • Repair Activator 1%
  • Sodium PCA 3%
  • กันเสีย 2% (Mild Preserved Eco™)
  • Sugarclain 2%
  • LipidSoft Lite 7%
  • Rosemary 0.05%
  • Protec™ UV 0.1%
  • Lemon Scent 1%
  • propolymer 2%
  • Salicylic Acid 3%

(Adjust water percentage to reach 100%)

Can these ingredients be mixed together? If they can be mixed, will the formulation clog pores? I want to create a product to reduce dark spots and clogged pores. Will it feel very sticky? Please provide some advice.

คำตอบ

Formulation Analysis and Recommendations

Based on the ingredients and percentages you provided, here is an analysis of your proposed formulation aimed at reducing dark spots and clogged pores:

Ingredient Compatibility and Formulation Notes

Most of the ingredients you've selected are water-soluble and commonly used in serum or gel formulations. The combination of humectants (Hyaluronic Acid, Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids, Sodium PCA) and a gel maker (Pro Polymer) will create a serum or gel texture.

  • Salicylic Acid (BHA): The primary concern is the inclusion of Salicylic Acid at 3%. For leave-on cosmetic products applied to the skin, the recommended maximum usage rate by the FDA is 2%. Using 3% exceeds this limit and may cause irritation or other adverse reactions. Additionally, Salicylic Acid powder is not water-soluble and requires a suitable solvent (like Propylene Glycol or alcohol) to dissolve properly before being incorporated into a water-based formula. Simply adding the powder to water will not result in a stable or effective solution.
  • Pro Polymer: You are using Pro Polymer at 2%, which is appropriate given the presence of electrolytes like Sodium PCA and Zinc PCA. This concentration should help achieve the desired gel texture despite the electrolytes.
  • Sodium PCA: The 3% concentration of Sodium PCA 50% means you are using 1.5% active Sodium PCA, which is within the recommended usage range for moisturizing benefits.
  • SugarClean™: This ingredient is a deodorizer derived from sugarcane extract, not a preservative. Your formulation also includes a preservative (Mild Preserved Eco™), which is necessary for product stability and safety.
  • pH Level: The effectiveness and stability of several ingredients depend on the pH. Alpha Arbutin works best between pH 3.5-6.5, and Zinc PCA is most soluble between pH 4-6. Salicylic Acid is more effective at a lower pH (around 3-4). To ensure the best performance and stability of all active ingredients, you would need to carefully adjust the final pH of your formulation, ideally aiming for a range between 4-6, which is suitable for Zinc PCA, Alpha Arbutin, and generally acceptable for skin.

Will it Clog Pores?

This formulation is unlikely to clog pores if formulated correctly and used at appropriate concentrations (especially Salicylic Acid). Several ingredients are specifically included to address issues associated with clogged pores and acne:

  • Salicylic Acid: A BHA that exfoliates skin and helps clear pores.
  • Zinc PCA: Helps reduce oiliness and has anti-inflammatory properties.
  • Safe B3 (Niacinamide): Can help reduce sebum production.
  • GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine): May help reduce acne breakouts.
  • LipidSoft Lite: A light emollient that does not clog pores.

Will it be Sticky?

The texture is likely to be a serum or light gel. Ingredients like Hyaluronic Acid and Pro Polymer contribute to the gel texture and can sometimes feel slightly sticky or tacky upon initial application, especially at higher concentrations. However, the inclusion of LipidSoft Lite, a light emollient, should help to reduce overall stickiness and improve the spreadability and feel of the product on the skin.

Effectiveness for Dark Spots and Clogged Pores

This formulation contains a powerful combination of ingredients known to target both dark spots and clogged pores:

  • For Dark Spots: Safe B3 (Niacinamide), GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine), and Alpha Arbutin are all effective skin brighteners that work through different mechanisms to reduce hyperpigmentation. The combination of Niacinamide and Acetyl Glucosamine is particularly noted for reducing dark spots.
  • For Clogged Pores and Acne: Salicylic Acid, Zinc PCA, Safe B3 (Niacinamide), and GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine) work together to exfoliate, reduce oiliness, calm inflammation, and help clear pores.

However, it is crucial to reduce the Salicylic Acid concentration to 2% or less to comply with regulations for leave-on products and minimize potential irritation. You also need to ensure the Salicylic Acid is properly dissolved in a suitable solvent before adding it to the water phase.

Recommendations

  1. Reduce Salicylic Acid: Lower the concentration of Salicylic Acid to a maximum of 2% for a leave-on product to ensure safety and compliance.
  2. Proper Dissolution: Dissolve the Salicylic Acid powder in a suitable solvent (like Propylene Glycol or alcohol) before incorporating it into your water-based formulation.
  3. Adjust pH: Carefully measure and adjust the final pH of your formulation to be within the range of 4-6 to optimize the stability and effectiveness of the active ingredients like Zinc PCA and Alpha Arbutin.
  4. Consider Texture: While LipidSoft Lite helps, the combination of gelling agents and humectants might still result in some tackiness. You can experiment with slightly lower concentrations of Hyaluronic Acid or Pro Polymer if the stickiness is too much, while ensuring the desired texture and stability are maintained.

By making these adjustments, your formulation has the potential to be an effective product for addressing both dark spots and clogged pores.

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Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
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Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule, 1M Daltons)
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Salicylic Acid (BHA, Pharma Grade)
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Sodium PCA 50%
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Rosemary Oleoresin Extract (ROE)
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Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids (e.q. Prodew 400)
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Lemon Freshy
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