Formulation for oil-like cream with AHA using Soy Lecithin

Asked by: k.jupalak On: November 18, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I want to create a cream with an oil-like texture that contains AHA (Glycolic Acid). I understand that a purely oil-based cream cannot incorporate water-soluble ingredients like AHA. The staff recommended using Soy Lecithin as an emulsifier to combine water and oil, allowing for a small amount of water (up to 5%) in the formula while maintaining an oil-like feel.

Could you please provide a sample formulation for this type of cream? The staff provided an example, but I want to confirm the ingredient percentages and process.

The example formula provided was:

  • Shea Butter 84.5%
  • Glycolic Acid 5%
  • Soy Lecithin 5%
  • Distilled Water 5%
  • Preservative 0.5% (sufficient at 0.1-0.5% due to low water content)

Is this formulation correct, and what is the recommended mixing procedure to achieve the desired oil-like texture with these ingredients?

Answer

Based on the conversation, creating a cream that is entirely oil-based is not feasible if you wish to include water-soluble ingredients like AHA.

To incorporate water-soluble ingredients while maintaining an oil-like texture with a small amount of water (around 5%), you will need an emulsifier to combine the water and oil phases.

Soy Lecithin is recommended for this purpose.

The staff provided an example formulation using Shea Butter, Glycolic Acid (a type of AHA), Soy Lecithin, distilled water, and a preservative. This type of formulation can help address concerns like acne and skin brightening.