Formulation & Ingredient Questions: TransDerm Gel Texture, Whitening, and Ingredient Availability
Question
Formulation & Ingredient Questions
I have a few questions regarding cosmetic formulations and ingredients:
1. Review of My TransDerm Gel Formulation
I have developed a TransDerm gel formulation aimed at skin strengthening, anti-aging, and whitening. The formula includes the following ingredients:
- Repair Activator™ (Bifida Ferment Lysate)
- Cerasoft™ (Synthetic Ceramide)
- Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
- Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine)
- Hi-LiconeA™ (Licochalcone A)
- Allantoin
- Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) at approximately 3-4%
- Activated Resorcinol™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol)
The mixing process involves separating water and oil phases before combining them. After mixing, the texture is liquid but becomes sticky upon application. I also observed some separation into a clear liquid part and a thicker gel part, which requires shaking before use. Initially, there were white particles from the ceramide, but they disappeared after about a day.
After using the gel for about 3 weeks, I've noticed my skin feels stronger and redness has reduced, and there's some reduction in wrinkles. However, I haven't seen any whitening effect yet, despite using Perfect-C™ and Activated Resorcinol™.
Could you please review this formulation and comment on the observed texture/separation issues? Also, why might the whitening effect not be visible yet, especially considering the expert's note that if the base is working (as evidenced by stronger skin), the issue might be with the actives (Perfect-C™ and Resorcinol) or my skin's suitability?
2. Ingredient Availability
Could you explain why certain ingredients like Myristyl Nicotinate (Max-B3™), Resveratrol (Trans-Resveratrol), Ectoin, and Eyeseryl (Pep®-Eye) have been temporarily unavailable or discontinued? Will they be available again in the future?
3. Adding Hair Care Ingredients to Ready-Made Products
Is it possible to add ingredients such as Dandruff-Guard™ (Piroctone Olamine), Zinc Pyrithione, anti-static agents, and Pure Keratin™ to ready-made shampoos or conditioners? If so, what are the recommended mixing methods, usage rates, precautions, and potential impacts on the product's texture and stability?
Answer
Answers to Your Formulation Questions
Here are the answers to your questions regarding ingredients and your TransDerm gel formulation:
1. Ingredients Removed from the Website
Based on the information from the staff, ingredients like Myristyl Nicotinate (Max-B3™), Resveratrol (Trans-Resveratrol), Ectoin, and Eyeseryl (Pep®-Eye) may be temporarily unavailable or discontinued primarily due to two main factors:
- Raw Material Price Fluctuations: The cost of some natural-derived ingredients, such as Resveratrol (extracted from grapes), can fluctuate significantly. When prices rise sharply, it becomes difficult for the company to maintain a stable selling price, sometimes leading to a decision to temporarily stop importing.
- Performance vs. Cost: In some cases, if customer feedback indicates that an ingredient's performance is not consistently effective or does not justify its cost, the company may decide to discontinue it to curate a selection of better-performing ingredients for customers.
Regarding their return, it depends on the specific ingredient and the reasons for its removal. For some, like Ectoin, if you require a large quantity (1kg or more), you might be able to contact customer service. For others, like Resveratrol, alternatives may be sourced. It seems Resveratrol has recently become available again.
2. Adding Hair Care Ingredients to Ready-Made Products
You can generally add ingredients like Dandruff-Guard™ (Piroctone Olamine), Zinc Pyrithione, anti-static agents, and Pure Keratin™ to ready-made shampoos or conditioners, provided you follow the recommended mixing methods and usage rates for each ingredient. However, there are important precautions:
- Check Existing Ingredients: Before adding Dandruff-Guard™ or Zinc Pyrithione, check if the ready-made product already contains these or similar anti-dandruff/antimicrobial agents. Adding too much can be harmful, as they are active treatment ingredients. The total concentration of Zinc (including from Zinc Pyrithione, Zinc PCA, etc.) should generally not exceed 1% in rinse-off products according to some regulations.
- Mixing Method: Ensure the ingredient can be properly dispersed or dissolved in the base product. For example, Dandruff-Guard™ powder needs to be dispersed in water first before adding to shampoo. Pure Keratin™ is water-soluble and can be mixed into the water phase.
- Compatibility: Be aware of potential incompatibilities. For instance, Zinc Pyrithione should ideally not be used with EDTA or non-ionic surfactants, and oxidants can cause it to deteriorate. Anti-static agents are often polymers and should be compatible with the base formula.
- Texture and Stability: Adding ingredients can affect the texture and stability of the ready-made product. Adding too much keratin, for example, might make the product feel sticky. The product might separate or change viscosity.
- Usage Rate: Adhere strictly to the recommended usage rates for each additive to ensure safety and effectiveness. For Dandruff-Guard™ and Zinc Pyrithione, there are regulatory limits depending on whether the product is rinse-off or leave-on.
Adding anti-static agents (which can be various types of polymers) and Pure Keratin™ is generally less risky in terms of safety compared to the antimicrobial agents, but can still impact product aesthetics and stability.
3. Review of Your TransDerm Gel Formulation
Your TransDerm gel formulation for skin strengthening, anti-aging, and whitening appears to be a sophisticated mix of beneficial active ingredients. Based on the components and mixing steps you described, along with the feedback from the forum:
- Ingredients: The selection of ingredients like Repair Activator™ (Bifida Ferment Lysate), Cerasoft™ (Synthetic Ceramide), Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5), Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine), Hi-LiconeA™ (Licochalcone A), Allantoin, Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate), and Activated Resorcinol™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol) targets multiple skin concerns (barrier repair, collagen stimulation, anti-wrinkle, anti-inflammatory, whitening, antioxidant).
- Mixing Steps: The described mixing steps, separating water and oil phases before combining, are standard for emulsion-based gels. Ensuring thorough mixing (like shaking or blending) is crucial for the two phases to combine well and prevent separation, as noted in the forum reply.
- Observations (Texture and Separation): Your observation of a liquid texture that becomes sticky when applied and some separation is consistent with a formula containing a significant oil phase (20%) and potentially high concentrations of certain actives or bases. The separation into a clear liquid and thicker gel part is likely phase separation, which can occur in emulsions or gels if the emulsification/gelling isn't perfectly stable, especially with high active loads or temperature changes. Shaking before use, as you are doing, is a practical way to recombine the phases. The disappearance of the white ceramide particles after a day suggests they eventually integrated into the formula.
- Efficacy: Your initial review after 3 weeks is promising, noting improved skin strength and reduced redness, which aligns with the properties of ingredients like Repair Activator™ and Allantoin. The observation of some wrinkle reduction is also expected from peptides like Pep®-Coll and Acetyl-Tyrosine. Whitening effects from Perfect-C™ and Activated Resorcinol™ might take longer to become noticeable, and consistency with sun protection is key for evaluating whitening.
Overall, the formula is rich in actives targeting your stated goals. The texture and separation issues you observed are not uncommon in complex formulations and, as long as the phases can be recombined by shaking without affecting performance, it might be acceptable for personal use. The forum feedback suggesting that if skin strengthening is observed, the base might be working, and the whitening issue could be related to the actives themselves (Perfect-C™ and Activated Resorcinol™) or your skin's response, is a valid point for further observation.
Continue using the gel and observe the results over 2-3 months for a more complete assessment of its efficacy, particularly regarding whitening and long-term anti-aging effects.
Related Products Mentioned
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
Allantoin
Disodium EDTA
Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine)
Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate)
Dandruff-Guard™ (Piroctone Olamine)
Trans-Resveratrol (Powder, 98%)
Cerasoft™ (Synthetic Ceramide)
Ectoine (Ectoin, from Bio-fermentation)