Formulation inspired by Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair

Based on the ingredients of Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex, here is a possible formulation using ingredients available from MySkinRecipes. This formulation aims to replicate the key active and functional components for skin repair and hydration.

Key Ingredients and MySkinRecipes Equivalents

• Bifida Ferment Lysate: Use Bifida Repair Complex™ (Bifida Ferment Lysate, High Conc) (recommended usage rate 1-7%). This highly concentrated ingredient is noted for its skin barrier enhancement and antioxidant effects.
• Butylene Glycol: Use Butylene Glycol (recommended usage rate 1-20%). Acts as a solvent and humectant.
• Tripeptide-32: Use Pep®-T32 (Tripeptide-32 1000ppm) (recommended usage rate 1-5%). A peptide known for cellular repair and anti-aging properties.
• Lactobacillus Ferment: Use MYFerment™ Exfo (Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate) (recommended usage rate 1-100%). Provides mild exfoliation and supports the skin barrier.
• Retinyl Palmitate: Use Vitamin A Palmitate (retinyl palmitate, 1MIU/g) (recommended usage rate 0.1-1.0%). A form of Vitamin A for skin renewal and anti-aging.
• Pantethine: As suggested by staff, use Panthenol (Vitamin B5, DL-Panthenol, Powder) or D-Panthenol Care (Pro-Vitamin B5, 100% Liquid) (recommended usage rate 0.5-10% for skin). Vitamin B5 is a humectant and helps with skin healing and reducing inflammation.
• Caffeine: Use Encapsulated Caffeine (50% Caffeine Active) (recommended usage rate up to 3% for face). Known for antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.
• Sodium RNA: Consider using Salmon DNA (PDRN, Polydeoxyribonucleotide, 90% Micronized Flake) (recommended usage rate 0.3-0.8%) as an alternative for skin repair benefits. Note that PDRN requires special tools for dissolution.
• Squalane: Use Squalane (Olive) (recommended usage rate 1-100%). An emollient and antioxidant.
• Bisabolol: Use Bisabolol (Alpha Bisabolol, Bisabolol RAC) (recommended usage rate 0.5-1%). Known for its soothing and anti-irritant properties.
• Hydrogenated Lecithin: Use Hydrogenated Lecithin (95% Phosphatidylcholine). Can be used for encapsulating ingredients or as an emulsifier/skin-conditioning agent.
• Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile Water): Use Chamomile Water (Anthemis Nobilis) (recommended usage rate 1-100%). Provides soothing properties.
• Sodium Hyaluronate: Use Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule) (recommended usage rate 0.1-0.5%). A humectant for skin hydration.
• Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E): Use Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) (recommended usage rate 0.1-1%). An antioxidant.

Thickening Agents

To achieve a serum or gel texture, you can use:

• Xanthan Gum: Use Xanthan Gum (clear gel type, smooth texture) (recommended usage rate 0.1-2%). Mix in the water phase.
• Carbomer: Use Carbomer 940 (EasyDisperse™) (recommended usage rate 0.5-3%). Requires neutralization with an alkali like Triethanolamine.

Chelating Agent

To improve stability, you can add a chelating agent:

• Use Disodium EDTA (pH 3.0-9.0) or Tetrasodium EDTA (pH 8-12) (recommended usage rate 0.1-0.2%). Alternatively, use Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate (EDDS) as a biodegradable option.

Preservatives

To prevent microbial growth, add a preservative:

• Use Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure) (recommended usage rate 0.5-1.0%).
• Alternatively, use Dichlorobenzyl Alcohol (recommended usage rate 0.1-1.0%).

Formulation Notes

• Combine water-soluble ingredients in the water phase. Some ingredients like Bifida Ferment Lysate and Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate should be added in the final step and avoid heat above 40°C.
• Combine oil-soluble ingredients like Squalane, Vitamin A Palmitate, Vitamin E, and Bisabolol in a separate oil phase. Hydrogenated Lecithin can be dispersed in the oil phase.
• If using Carbomer, disperse it in the water phase and neutralize after adding other water-soluble ingredients but before adding heat-sensitive or oil-phase ingredients.
• Add the oil phase to the water phase (or vice versa, depending on your emulsification system if creating a lotion/cream). Hydrogenated Lecithin can help with emulsification.
• Add thickeners like Xanthan Gum or neutralized Carbomer to achieve the desired texture.
• Add preservatives in the final step, ensuring the temperature is below their maximum tolerance.
• Always perform stability and challenge testing on your final formulation.

This provides a framework for creating a product with similar beneficial ingredients to the Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair using ingredients available from MySkinRecipes.