Formulation Issue: Achieving Cream Texture with Light Cream Maker and High Azelaic Acid

Asked by: up2weight On: June 05, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am trying to create a cream formulation with the following ingredients:

  • Tranexamic Acid 3%
  • MOIST72 1%
  • Azelaic Acid liquid 10%
  • Niacinamide 5%
  • Light Cream Maker 1.5%
  • Aqua 79.5%

Since there is no oil in the formula, I added the Light Cream Maker at the end. However, the mixture did not form a cream; it remained liquid, and the polymer did not bind together. What adjustments or additions should I make to fix this?

Answer

Formulation Issue with Light Cream Maker

It appears the issue with your formulation not forming a cream is likely due to the interaction between the Light Cream Maker and the Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic) in your formula.

Here's why and how to fix it:

  • Electrolyte Sensitivity: Light Cream Maker is an emulsifier and thickener that can be affected by electrolytes. Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic) is an electrolyte. When electrolytes are present, they can reduce the thickening power of Light Cream Maker.
  • Concentration: Your formula contains a high percentage of Azelaic Acid (10%). The 1.5% concentration of Light Cream Maker you used might not be sufficient to achieve the desired cream consistency in the presence of this much electrolyte. The product description for Light Cream Maker suggests using a higher concentration, around 2-3%, when electrolytes are included in the formula.
  • Mixing Method: For formulas containing a significant amount of electrolytes, it is recommended to first disperse the Light Cream Maker in the water phase and mix until thickened. Then, gradually add the electrolyte-containing ingredient (like your Azelaic Acid solution) while continuously mixing. Adding the Light Cream Maker last, as you did, is not the optimal method for formulas with electrolytes.

Recommendations:

  1. Increase Light Cream Maker: Try increasing the concentration of Light Cream Maker to 2-3% in your formula.
  2. Adjust Mixing Method: Disperse the Light Cream Maker in the water phase first and mix well. Then, slowly add the Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic) solution while mixing to maintain the cream consistency. You may need to add more Light Cream Maker incrementally if the mixture thins out as you add the Azelaic Acid.

By adjusting the concentration of Light Cream Maker and following the recommended mixing method for electrolyte-containing formulas, you should be able to achieve a stable cream texture.