Formulation Issue: Azelaic Acid Cream with Satin Cream Maker

Asked by: myboeing2 On: August 07, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am trying to formulate a cream containing Azelaic Acid using Satin Cream Maker at 1% as the emulsifier. However, the resulting texture is lumpy and watery, and it does not form a stable cream. What is the reason for this issue, and how can I fix it?

Answer

Hello, based on the information you provided and the staff's reply:

The reason your formula didn't result in a cream texture, but instead became lumpy and watery, is due to Azelaic Acid. Azelaic Acid is an electrolyte, which makes it difficult for the emulsifier (Satin Cream Maker) to create a stable cream texture.

The suggested solution from the staff is:

  • Increase the amount of Satin Cream Maker: Increase from 1% to 1.5-2.0%.
  • Adjust the mixing procedure:
    • Mix all other ingredients as usual until the cream base is formed.
    • Keep Azelaic Acid to add in the final step.
    • Gradually add Azelaic Acid little by little, mixing or blending well after each addition.
    • Observe the texture. If it becomes significantly thinner, add a small amount of additional Satin Cream Maker and mix or blend again to rebuild the texture.
    • Repeat this process until all Azelaic Acid is incorporated without the texture becoming too thin (which would lead to separation).

Hope this helps!

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