Formulation Issues: Gel/Cream Texture, Mixing Equipment, and Alternatives for AHA/BHA

Asked by: moo_wilaija On: April 27, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have several questions regarding cosmetic formulation:

  1. Can I formulate my existing wrinkle formula as a liquid toner? The formula contains ingredients like DMAE, Panthenol, Wrinkle-Fill, NAT-RIBOSE, Wrinkle-Lax, BaicaVital, B12, MOIST24, Ethoxydiglycol, and a preservative.
  2. I tried making an AHA gel using Pro Polymer as a thickener and a food mixer with a whisk attachment, but it resulted in a foamy texture and did not thicken properly. Why did this happen?
  3. If I don't have a proper high-shear blender, what is the best way to formulate products containing actives like AHA/BHA or Salicylic Acid EZ?
  4. Could you please provide the correct mixing procedure for formulating a cream using Satin Cream Maker?

Answer

  • Wrinkle Formula as Toner: Yes, you can make a liquid toner version of your wrinkle formula by dissolving all water-soluble ingredients (including DMAE, Panthenol, Wrinkle-Fill, NAT-RIBOSE, Wrinkle-Lax, BaicaVital, B12, MOIST24, preservative) in water. Ethoxydiglycol can be added with the water phase. Stir gently until dissolved. This does not require a thickener like Pro Polymer or a blender. Consider reducing DMAE (e.g., to 5%) and French Pine Bark (e.g., to 1%) if you are concerned about irritation or color, especially for your mother's skin. You can also add Safe-B3 (3-5%) and Flora Solve Clear (1%) if desired. Always check the pH of the final product before use.
  • AHA/BHA Gels/Creams with Pro Polymer or Satin Cream Maker: The foamy texture you got with the AHA gel is because the whisk attachment on your food mixer incorporates too much air and does not provide the necessary shear force to properly hydrate and activate thickeners like Pro Polymer or emulsifiers like Satin Cream Maker, especially in the presence of electrolytes (like AHA/BHA or DMAE). To achieve a smooth, stable gel or cream texture with these ingredients, a proper high-shear mixer is required. Hand stirring or a whisk is not suitable.
  • Making AHA/BHA Products without a Blender: If you do not have a proper high-shear blender, the most feasible way to make AHA/BHA products is as toners (liquids) that do not require thickeners. Dissolve the AHA/BHA ingredient (like Salicylic Acid EZ™ or Glycolic Acid) and other water-soluble ingredients (humectants, extracts, preservatives) directly in water by stirring gently until dissolved. Then, check and adjust the pH to the appropriate range (typically pH 3.0-4.0) for effectiveness and safety.
  • Satin Cream Mixing: Your proposed mixing steps for the satin cream were incorrect. Please refer to the product description for Satin Cream Maker on the shop website for the correct procedure (typically hydrating the emulsifier in the water phase first, then adding the oil phase). However, as mentioned, a proper mixer is highly recommended for stable emulsions.

In summary, you can make the wrinkle formula as a toner by stirring. For gels and creams using Pro Polymer or Satin Cream Maker, especially with electrolyte-containing actives like AHA/BHA or DMAE, a proper high-shear mixer is necessary. If you want to make AHA/BHA products without a blender, make them as liquid toners.

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