Formulation Issues: Separation, Texture, Absorption, Phenoxyethanol, and Thickeners

Question

I have some questions regarding cosmetic formulation issues I've encountered:

I made a cream formulation using Phenoxyethanol at a high concentration. I applied the part with excess Phenoxyethanol to my arm and didn't feel any burning sensation. Is it safe to use on the face?
I used Light Cream Maker and Pro Polymer together in a formula. I did this because I added Aloe Vera Extract, which I didn't realize would make the texture thin, and I had run out of Light Cream Maker. Is it acceptable to use these two thickeners together in this situation?
I tried two different formulations:
- Formula 1:
  - MSH White 5%
  - Activated Resorcinol 1%
  - Bisabolol 1%
  - Others are water.
    
    This formula separated. Why did this happen?
- Formula 2:
  - LHA 10%
  - Pro Niacin 5%
  - Bisabolol 1%
    
    This formula is very oily and doesn't absorb at all; it just sits on the skin. Why is this happening?
What kind of thickeners or ingredients can be used in a water+oil, no-heat formula to make it absorb quickly and not feel oily?
If a cream separates, can it be shaken before use?
Regarding the cream with excess Phenoxyethanol, I felt a warm sensation. What caused this?
When will the new plankton ingredient be available?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Here are the answers to your questions: Regarding the use of Pro Polymer Gel Maker in a water+oil formula, adding the Pro Polymer to the water phase, blending until gel forms, and then adding the oil phase is the correct method. To address a cream feeling oily or not absorbing well, the feel and absorption depend heavily on the overall formulation, including the types and amounts of oils, emulsifiers, and thickeners used. The staff noted issues with your provided formulas (Formula 1 lacks emulsification for oil-soluble ingredients, Formula 2 is incomplete), which would contribute to poor texture and absorption. Using appropriate emulsifiers and selecting oils known for faster absorption can help. The staff requested the full formula composition to provide more specific advice. Regarding thickeners that promote fast absorption in a water+oil, no-heat formula: While some thickeners and emulsifiers can contribute to a lighter, faster-absorbing feel, the overall formulation is key. As mentioned in point 2, ensuring proper emulsification and selecting suitable oil types are crucial for good absorption. Yes, you can use Pro Polymer Gel and Light Cream Maker together. As you experienced, Pro Polymer can help thicken a formula that has become thin, for example, due to the presence of electrolytes from ingredients like Aloe Vera Extract, and it is compatible with Light Cream Maker. If a cream separates, you can shake it to recombine the phases before use. You should not use the cream with excess Phenoxyethanol on your face. Although you didn't feel irritation on your arm, facial skin is more sensitive. Phenoxyethanol can cause irritation, redness, stinging, or peeling if used above the recommended concentration of 1.0%, as stated by regulatory bodies and manufacturers. The warm sensation you felt is likely due to the high concentration of Phenoxyethanol. As mentioned in point 6, it is not recommended to use this cream on your face due to the risk of irritation. The new plankton ingredient is expected to be available within this Monday.