Formulation Issues: Solubility and Emulsification Problems in Serum/Cream

Hello,

Regarding the formula and the issues you've reported, please see the explanation and recommendations below:

1. Effectiveness of the formula for reducing wrinkles:

   • This formula contains several ingredients with anti-aging and skin-benefiting properties, such as Apple Stem Cell, Coenzyme Q10, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Double Hyaluron Liquid, and Lactic Acid, which have the potential to help reduce wrinkles and improve skin condition.
   • It also includes ingredients that help reduce irritation and strengthen the skin barrier, such as SKIN-DEFENSE®, Hydro Protein, and Sodium PCA, which are beneficial for overall skin health.
   • The overall effectiveness also depends on the compatibility of the ingredients and the stability of the formulation.

2. Solubility of ingredients:

   • As the staff mentioned, SKIN-DEFENSE® (697) and Coenzyme Q10 (483) are oil-soluble ingredients.
   • Silky Serum Base (498) is a base for serums primarily designed for water-soluble ingredients and cannot emulsify oil-soluble ingredients. Therefore, if using Silky Serum Base, you cannot directly add SKIN-DEFENSE® and Coenzyme Q10.
   • Other ingredients in your formula, such as Apple Stem Cell Extract (114), Hydro Protein, Sodium PCA (156), Double Hyaluron Liquid (404), Ethyl Ascorbic acid (833), and Lactic Acid (170), are water-soluble or well-dispersible in water.

3. Mixing issues encountered:

   • Apple Stem Cell Extract (114): Seeing small floating particles indicates insufficient stirring or blending. You need to continue blending or stirring until the small particles dissolve completely into the water phase.
   • SKIN-DEFENSE® (697) + Light Cream Maker (141) + Water phase: The issue of the mixture separating into clumps when pouring the oil phase (containing SKIN-DEFENSE® and Light Cream Maker) into the water phase is because Light Cream Maker is an emulsifier that requires a proper emulsification process. Generally, to create an emulsion (like a cream or a serum containing oil-soluble ingredients), you need to:
     • Divide the ingredients into a Water Phase and an Oil Phase.
     • Dissolve the emulsifier (like Light Cream Maker) in the Oil Phase.
     • Heat both phases (usually to around 70-80°C).
     • Slowly pour the hot Oil Phase into the hot Water Phase (or vice versa, depending on the emulsifier type) while continuously blending or stirring at high speed to allow the emulsifier to combine the water and oil.
     • Continue blending or stirring until the mixture thickens and cools down.
   • Therefore, mixing SKIN-DEFENSE® with Light Cream Maker and then pouring it into cold water without using heat and the correct emulsification method will result in the ingredients not combining and separating into clumps. Heat is necessary and you must follow the specific instructions for using Light Cream Maker.

4. Additional Recommendations:

   • Choosing the Base: If you want to include both SKIN-DEFENSE® and Coenzyme Q10 in your formula, you must change from using Silky Serum Base (498) to an emulsifier or cream maker that can emulsify oils, as suggested by the staff, such as Light Cream Maker (141), Pro Polymer (234), or Pro Polymer Silk (832).
   • Using a Cream Maker: Study and follow the correct emulsification procedure for the chosen Cream Maker. Generally, this involves using heat and appropriate blending/stirring.
   • Coenzyme Q10 (483) Concentration: As advised by the staff, using Coenzyme Q10 at 5% might result in a very dark product color (dark yellow-red). If you prefer a lighter color, you can reduce the concentration to 1-2%.
   • Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (833) Concentration: If you want to emphasize wrinkle reduction and skin barrier strengthening, you can consider increasing the concentration of Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to 5%, as suggested by the staff.
   • Moisturizer Ingredients: Consider your skin type. If your skin is not very dry, you might reduce or omit some of the moisturizer ingredients, such as Hydro Protein or Sodium PCA (156), as per the staff's previous advice.
   • Texture: If using a Cream Maker and you want the product texture to be smoother and silkier, you can add about 5% Silicone Blend (Heavy & Silky) (722).

In summary, this formula contains several good ingredients for reducing wrinkles and irritation, but the mixing issues arose from choosing a base incompatible with oil-soluble ingredients and using an incorrect mixing method when attempting to use a Cream Maker. It is recommended to change the base to a Cream Maker and follow the correct emulsification procedure.

Hope this advice is helpful. Please feel free to ask if you have any further questions.