Formulation Issues: Solubility, Texture, and Separation in Melasma Serum

Question

I am developing a serum formulation for melasma treatment using Silky Serum Base Plus at 50% concentration. I also included the following ingredients:

Tranexamic Acid
Azelaic Acid
Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine
Soy Extract
สารสกัดกวาวเครือ

After mixing, I noticed the product is cloudy/separated and the texture is very liquid. What could be the reason for these issues and how can I fix the current batch and adjust the formula for future production?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Formulation Review for Melasma Treatment

Based on the staff's feedback, the solubility and separation issues in your melasma treatment formulation are primarily due to the lack of water.

Several ingredients you used are water-soluble and require an aqueous phase to dissolve correctly. These include:

Tranexamic Acid
Azelaic Acid
Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine
Soy Extract
สารสกัดกวาวเครือ (Pueraria Mirifica Extract)

Without sufficient water, these ingredients will not fully dissolve, causing the cloudy appearance and potentially contributing to the separation you observed.

Staff's Recommended Adjustments:

To fix this, the staff recommends adjusting the formula for future batches:

Reduce Silky Serum Base Plus from 50% to 15%.
Add Water at 35%.
Ensure water-soluble ingredients (items 4-9) are dissolved in the water phase before combining with the base and other ingredients.

Fixing Your Current Batch:

As suggested by the staff, you can try adding water to your existing mixture. This should help dissolve the undissolved ingredients and improve the consistency, which would otherwise be too liquid without the added water.

The staff also noted that the total concentration of active ingredients is quite high, which might affect the texture. Reducing the percentage of some actives could improve the feel of the final product in future formulations.