Formulation Troubleshooting: Wild Yam and Milk Thistle in Butter Cleanser

It sounds like you're encountering some common challenges when incorporating extracts and pigments into an anhydrous (water-free) butter cleanser formula. Let's look at each issue:

Wild Yam Extract (Diosgenin, Liquid) Dissolution

You're using Wild Yam Extract (Diosgenin, Liquid) at 0.2% and heating to 60°C, but it's not fully dissolving.

• According to the product information, this extract is oil-soluble and can withstand heating up to 60°C for a short period (up to 10 minutes) to aid dissolution.
• A possible reason for incomplete dissolution, especially if the extract was stored in a cool place, is that some components may have precipitated during storage. The product description recommends letting it sit at room temperature for 3 hours before mixing.
• Recommendation: Ensure the Wild Yam Extract is at room temperature before you begin heating. When heating to 60°C, make sure you are mixing thoroughly for the recommended short duration (up to 10 minutes) to help it fully incorporate into the oil/butter phase. Ensure your mixing method provides sufficient shear to disperse and dissolve the extract.

Milk Thistle Extract (Silybum Marianum, Silymarin) Precipitation

You observed precipitation of Milk Thistle Extract (Silybum Marianum, Silymarin) after adding Ultramarine Pink, Mild Preserve Eco, and Tocopherol.

• Milk Thistle Extract (Silybum Marianum, Silymarin) is described as an oil-soluble powder.
• The precipitation suggests that the Silymarin component is coming out of solution. This can happen due to incompatibility with other ingredients or if the overall solvent system (your oil/butter base plus the added liquids/dispersions) can no longer keep the Silymarin dissolved at that concentration.
• Let's consider the added ingredients:
  • Ultramarine Pink: This is a pigment, meaning it is a solid particle that is dispersed in the formula, not dissolved. Adding solid particles can sometimes destabilize a solution or provide sites for dissolved substances to precipitate onto.
  • Mild Preserve Eco: This is a liquid blend (Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,3 Propanediol) that is dispersible in oil. While it's liquid, adding a significant amount (0.5% Milk Thistle + other ingredients could change the overall polarity or solvent properties of your oil/butter base, potentially reducing the solubility of the Silymarin.
  • Tocopherol (Vitamin E): This is an oil-soluble liquid and is less likely to cause precipitation of another oil-soluble component unless there's a specific chemical incompatibility, which is less common for these types of ingredients.
• Likely Cause: The precipitation is most likely caused by the addition of the solid Ultramarine Pink pigment and potentially the Mild Preserve Eco, which alter the formula's ability to keep the Milk Thistle Extract dissolved.
• Recommendations:
  • Ensure the Milk Thistle Extract powder is fully dissolved in your main oil/butter phase before adding the other ingredients. You might try dissolving it in a small portion of a highly compatible oil from your formula first, then adding this concentrate to the main batch.
  • When adding Ultramarine Pink, ensure it is very finely dispersed. Pigments need high shear mixing to be properly distributed and avoid settling or clumping. Improperly dispersed pigments can also trap other ingredients or cause instability.
  • Consider the order of addition. Adding the Mild Preserve Eco and Tocopherol might be best done after the Milk Thistle is fully dissolved and dispersed, ensuring thorough mixing after each addition.

By carefully considering the solubility properties of each ingredient and the potential interactions when combining them, you should be able to improve the stability and appearance of your butter cleanser.