Formulation Issues with High Concentration AHA/BHA/Vitamin C Cream/Serum
ถามโดย: mini.nds
เมื่อ: July 21, 2016
ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์:
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คำถาม
I'm formulating a cream/serum with high concentrations of active ingredients including Glycolic Acid (AHA) 100% Powder, Salicylic Acid (BHA), and Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Ultra-Fine) along with Glutathione, Natural Betaine, WaterLock™, and Disodium EDTA, using Light Cream Maker as the emulsifier and water. I'm encountering problems with:
- The formula not emulsifying properly.
- The Salicylic Acid (BHA) not dissolving.
- The final product being very sticky.
- Concern about potential skin irritation due to the high concentrations.
Could you please advise on how to resolve these formulation issues and suggest appropriate ingredient concentrations and alternatives?
คำตอบ
Based on the staff's response, here is a summary of the issues with your formula and the recommended adjustments:
- Formula Incompatibility: Your current formula is not compatible.
- Glycolic Acid (AHA) 100% Powder: This ingredient makes it difficult to emulsify and create a cream texture. The staff recommends replacing your current emulsifier (Light Cream Maker) with acid-tolerant alternatives like Pro Polymer (1.5-2.5%), Satin Cream Maker (1.5-2.5%), or Butter Cream Maker (4-5%).
- Salicylic Acid (BHA): The standard Salicylic Acid will not dissolve in your formula. Please switch to Salicylic Acid EZ, which is water-soluble.
- Stickiness and Irritation: The high concentration of ingredients is the cause of the stickiness and significantly increases the risk of skin irritation. The staff strongly advises against using these concentrations on facial skin.
- Recommended Concentrations: The staff recommends the following maximum concentrations for key ingredients:
- Glycolic Acid (AHA) 100% Powder: max 5%
- Salicylic Acid EZ: max 5%
- Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Ultra-Fine): max 10%
- Other ingredients (Glutathione, Natural Betaine, WaterLock™, Disodium EDTA) can be kept at your original percentages.
- Reducing Stickiness: Stickiness is a natural characteristic of glycolic acid. You can reduce it by using a limited concentration or by adding emollients to improve the skin feel.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Fine)
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Natural Betaine (Crystal)
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Fractionated Coconut Oil
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Disodium EDTA
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Glutathione (L-Glutathione) (Extrasol)
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Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
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Satin Cream Maker™
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WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51)
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Glycopure™ (Glycolic Acid (AHA) Powder)
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Salicylic Acid EZ™ (ชนิดละลายน้ำ)
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Butter Cream Maker™
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