Formulation Advice for Oxybenzone-Free Sunscreen

Thank you for sharing your updated sunscreen formulation, designed to be free of Oxybenzone. It's good that you are addressing the sensitivity issue experienced by your customers and yourself.

Let's address your questions regarding the texture and the use of alcohol.

1. Cream Texture (Too Thick)

The thickness of your cream is likely due to a combination of factors, primarily related to the emulsification system and the high load of mineral sunscreens.

• Emulsifier Incompatibility: You are using Water in Oil EZ as your primary emulsifier, which creates a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion. However, you have also included Light Cream Maker in your water phase. Light Cream Maker is designed as an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifier and thickener. Using an O/W emulsifier in a W/O system is generally incompatible and will likely lead to instability and contribute to the thick, potentially undesirable texture. It is recommended to remove Light Cream Maker from this formulation.
• Mineral Sunscreen Load: Your formula contains a significant amount of dispersed Zinc Oxide (16%) and dispersed Titanium Dioxide (2%). Mineral sunscreens, especially at higher concentrations, contribute substantially to the viscosity and feel of a formulation. The specific type of dispersion (e.g., particle size, coating, base oil) also impacts the texture. While these are necessary for broad-spectrum UV protection, their high percentage is a major factor in the cream's thickness.
• Water-in-Oil Emulsion Characteristics: For Water-in-Oil emulsions using Water in Oil EZ, the product description indicates that a higher water percentage can lead to a thicker formula, while a higher oil/silicone percentage can make it more liquid. Given your current composition, adjusting the water and oil phases while removing the incompatible emulsifier should be the first step.

To achieve a smoother, less thick texture, the most crucial step is removing the Light Cream Maker. You could also explore using different types of emollients from the LipidSoft range that offer a lighter feel, or potentially optimize the percentages of the dispersed mineral sunscreens if possible without compromising SPF/PA efficacy.

2. Using Alcohol Denat to Reduce Oiliness

Yes, adding Alcohol denat to your formulation is an acceptable method to help reduce the oily feel of the cream. Alcohol evaporates quickly upon application, providing a lighter, less greasy sensation. The 2% concentration you are using is within the typical range and is noted in the Water in Oil EZ description as being manageable without causing separation issues (though concentrations above 5% are cautioned against).

In summary, removing the incompatible O/W emulsifier (Light Cream Maker) is key to improving the texture of your W/O sunscreen. The use of Alcohol denat at 2% is appropriate for reducing oiliness.