Formulation of DHEAS Serums: Thickening Oil-Based and Emulsifying Water-Based

Asked by: homonesdress On: November 15, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am trying to formulate two serum recipes.

  • Formula 1:

    • DHEAS 10%
    • Fractionated Coconut Oil 85% (or 90% if no fragrance)
    • Fragrance Oil 5% (adjust Fractionated Coconut Oil to 90% if not adding fragrance)

    This formula turned out like water and feels oily on the skin. How can I make it thicker, what should I add, and how should I mix it?

  • Formula 2: (Intended to be mixed with body lotion)

    • DHEAS 10%
    • Double Hyaluron Liquid 5%
    • Phenoxyethanol SA 0.5%
    • Water remaining

    How should I mix this formula?

Answer

Serum Formulation Advice

Formula 1: Oil-Based Serum (DHEAS, Fractionated Coconut Oil, Fragrance Oil)

You want a thicker texture for this formula without using heat or high-speed mixing. Based on the ingredients you are using, specifically Fractionated Coconut Oil, achieving significant thickening without heat is challenging with common oil gellants like Oil Thick Clear, which requires heating to dissolve and create a gel structure.

To get a thicker texture in an oil base like Fractionated Coconut Oil, you typically need to use an oil thickener. The staff previously recommended Oil Thick Clear. While this usually involves heating, if you want to avoid heat, the thickening effect with simple mixing will be minimal or non-existent depending on the specific thickener used.

Mixing Instructions (Standard Method with Heat for Thickening):

  1. Heat the Fractionated Coconut Oil to the temperature required by your chosen oil thickener (e.g., 90-100°C for Oil Thick Clear).
  2. Add the Oil Thick Clear to the heated oil and stir until completely dissolved and a gel forms.
  3. Remove from heat and let the mixture cool down to below 50°C.
  4. Once cooled, add the DHEAS and Fragrance Oil.
  5. Mix thoroughly until all ingredients are evenly dispersed.

If you absolutely want to avoid heat and high-speed mixing, you might need to accept a very slightly thicker liquid texture or explore other oil-soluble thickeners that work at room temperature with simple mixing, although these are less common for significant thickening of light oils like Fractionated Coconut Oil.

If you find that DHEAS separates in the formula, you can try adding a small amount (around 1%) of Oil Blender to help keep it dispersed.

Formula 2: Water-Based Serum (DHEAS, Double Hyaluron Liquid, Phenoxyethanol SA, Water)

This formula contains both water and oil-soluble ingredients (DHEAS). As the staff mentioned, DHEAS will not dissolve in water, so you need an emulsifier to create a stable, uniform serum texture.

The staff recommended using Satin Cream Maker or Light Cream Maker at 0.5-1.0% to emulsify this formula. These ingredients will help disperse the oil-soluble DHEAS throughout the water phase, creating a stable serum.

Mixing Instructions (Using an Emulsifier):

  1. In a container, combine the water and Double Hyaluron Liquid. Mix well. This is your water phase.
  2. In a separate container, add the DHEAS.
  3. Add your chosen emulsifier (Satin Cream Maker or Light Cream Maker) to the water phase and mix well.
  4. Slowly add the DHEAS (oil phase) to the water phase while continuously mixing. Mix until a uniform serum is formed.
  5. Finally, add the Phenoxyethanol SA and mix until fully incorporated.

Regarding Methylparaben in your initial query, as the staff correctly noted, it is a preservative. Since your proposed oil-based formula (Formula 1) does not contain water, a preservative is not necessary. For your water-based formula (Formula 2), you have included Phenoxyethanol SA, which is a suitable preservative for that system, so Methylparaben is not needed.