Formulation Questions for Pitera Serum: Ingredient Compatibility, Solvents, and EDTA

ถามโดย: monrada16 เมื่อ: May 26, 2015 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I am working on a cosmetic formulation containing Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera) along with Witch Hazel, Allantoin, Aloe Vera, Pro Vitamin B5, Vitamin B3, and Phenoxyethanol. I have a few questions regarding this formulation:

1. Can Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate be mixed with these ingredients, considering their pH values? (I am unsure about compatibility based on pH).
2. Should I use Butylene Glycol as a solvent in this formula?
3. Is it necessary to include EDTA2NA (Disodium EDTA) in this formulation?

คำตอบ

Formulation Questions Answered

Regarding your formulation questions:

  1. Compatibility of Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera) with other ingredients:

    • Generally, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate is compatible with the ingredients listed in your formula.
    • The pH ranges of Pitera (pH 4-7) and most of your ingredients (Witch Hazel pH 3-5, Allantoin pH 3-8, Aloe Vera pH 3.5-7, Green Tea Extract pH 4-6.5, Pro Vitamin B5 pH 3.5-7, Vitamin B3 pH 3-8, Phenoxyethanol pH 2-9, Disodium EDTA pH 3-9) overlap well within a typical cosmetic pH range (e.g., 4.0-6.5).
    • The user's concern about Allantoin compatibility might be related to its solubility. Allantoin is soluble in water up to about 0.5% at room temperature. Your proposed concentration of 0.5% of water is appropriate for solubility in the water phase. If the formula contains less than 100% water, the concentration of Allantoin relative to the total formula will be less than 0.5%, which is fine. The key is its concentration in the water phase.
  2. Should Butylene Glycol be used as a solvent?

    • Butylene Glycol is a common and effective solvent and humectant in cosmetic formulations, soluble in water. It can help dissolve ingredients and add moisture.
    • Alternatively, as suggested in the reply, a penetration enhancer like Ethoxydiglycol could be used. Ethoxydiglycol also acts as a solvent but is particularly good at helping active ingredients penetrate the skin.
    • Both Butylene Glycol and Ethoxydiglycol are suitable options depending on the desired feel and performance of the final product. If enhanced skin penetration of actives is a priority, Ethoxydiglycol might be preferred.
  3. Is EDTA2NA necessary?

    • Yes, including EDTA2NA (Disodium EDTA) is generally recommended in cosmetic formulations, especially those containing a water phase.
    • Disodium EDTA acts as a chelating agent, binding to metal ions that may be present in the water or introduced from other ingredients. These metal ions can sometimes cause instability, discoloration, or affect the performance of certain ingredients.
    • Adding Disodium EDTA helps to chelate these ions, improving the overall stability and shelf life of the product. The proposed concentration of 0.1% is within the typical usage rate (0.1-0.2%).

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Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
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Allantoin
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Aloe Vera Extract (extraction ratio 10:1 FullAssay™)
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Ethoxydiglycol (e.q. Transcutol)
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Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
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Witch Hazel (Distillate - Alcohol Free, Paraben Free)
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Disodium EDTA
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Butylene Glycol
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Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (aka Pitera)
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