Formulation Questions for Toner and Gel: Ingredient Compatibility and Measurement

Asked by: kitty_collon On: November 06, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have questions about formulating a toner and two gel recipes. Please review the following formulas and provide feedback:

Toner Formula:

  • Witch Hazel (Alcohol Free) Plus Allantoin 77%
  • Marine Plankton 2%
  • Wild Yam Extract (Diosgenin) 3%
  • DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid 5%
  • Wrinkle-Fill™ (L-Tyrosine) 2%
  • Activated Resorcinol S™ (Stabilized Liquid) 5%
  • Yeast Radiance™ 3%
  • Reservoir-Tech (กักเก็บส่วนผสมใต้ผิว) 3%

Is this toner formula viable? Are all ingredients compatible, especially Reservoir-Tech?

Gel Formulas:

Formula 1:

  • Aloe Vera Gel (Lite)
  • Lift-Now™ 5%
  • Repair Activator 10%
  • Yeast Radiance™ 2%(เหลือจากโทนเนอร์)
  • Willow Bark 5%
  • Reservoir-Tech (กักเก็บส่วนผสมใต้ผิว) 2%

Formula 2:

  • Aloe Vera Gel (Lite) 83%
  • Lift-Now™ 5%
  • Repair Activator 10%
  • Reservoir-Tech (กักเก็บส่วนผสมใต้ผิว) 2%

Are both gel formulas viable? Which formula might provide better results? I am targeting lifting and wrinkle reduction for normal to combination skin with deep wrinkles. How should I handle the concentration of Lift-Now™, especially if using at night or if my skin is sensitive?

Finally, when formulating using percentages (%), should I measure ingredients by weight (grams) or volume (ml)?

Answer

Subject: Re: Making Toner and Gel

Hello,

Thank you for your questions regarding your toner and gel formulations. I can provide feedback based on the ingredients you've listed and the staff's response.

Toner Formula:
Your proposed toner formula is mostly viable, but as the staff correctly pointed out, Reservoir-Tech (ID 1246) is not compatible with a water-based toner formula. It is designed to disperse in gel or cream bases. Therefore, you should remove Reservoir-Tech from your toner recipe.

After removing Reservoir-Tech (3%) and adjusting the base (Witch Hazel) to make the total 100%, the adjusted toner formula would be:

  • Witch Hazel (Alcohol Free) Plus Allantoin (ID 238): 80%
  • Marine Plankton (ID 1228): 2%
  • Wild Yam Extract (Diosgenin) (ID 1087): 3%
  • DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid (ID 637): 5%
  • Wrinkle-Fill™ (L-Tyrosine) (ID 492): 2%
  • Activated Resorcinol S™ (Stabilized Liquid) (ID 897): 5%
  • Yeast Radiance™ (ID 1199): 3%

Regarding your question about measurements: Cosmetic formulations are always based on weight (grams) when using percentages (%) because ingredients have different densities. Using volume (ml) instead of weight will result in inaccurate concentrations of your active ingredients, which can affect the formula's efficacy and stability. For best results and accurate formulation, it is highly recommended to use a digital scale to weigh your ingredients.

Gel Formula:
You proposed two gel formulas focusing on lifting and wrinkle reduction. Both formulas can be mixed.

Based on the ingredients, Formula 1 is expected to provide more comprehensive results as it includes Yeast Radiance™ (ID 1199) for radiance and Willow Bark (ID 1117) which contains natural salicylic acid, in addition to the lifting and repair ingredients.

Regarding the use of Lift-Now™ (Pullulan) (ID 406) at 5%, the staff's advice is very important. This ingredient can cause a tight feeling, which might be uncomfortable for some, especially at higher concentrations. It is also not ideal for nighttime use. It is strongly recommended to start with a lower concentration, such as 2%, as suggested by the staff. You can always increase the concentration later if you feel you need more lifting effect and your skin tolerates it. If you start too high and experience discomfort, it's difficult to fix without reformulating.

Therefore, I recommend trying an adjusted version of Formula 1, starting with a lower Lift-Now™ concentration. An example adjusted formula based on your original Formula 1 and the staff's advice would be:

  • Aloe Vera Gel (Lite) (ID 864): 79% (Base adjusted)
  • Lift-Now™ (ID 406): 2% (Adjusted)
  • Repair Activator (ID 259): 10%
  • Yeast Radiance™ (ID 1199): 2%
  • Willow Bark (ID 1117): 5%
  • Reservoir-Tech (ID 1246): 2%

This adjusted Formula 1 provides multiple benefits (lifting, repair, radiance, gentle exfoliation from Willow Bark) and allows you to test your tolerance to Lift-Now™.

Hope this helps with your formulations!