Formulation Questions: Full & Lift with Shea Butter and Tinosorb S Solubility in SPF Protect Ultra™

ถามโดย: sawalee49 เมื่อ: March 18, 2016 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I have two questions regarding my formulation:

  1. Can I heat Full & Lift with Shea Butter at 50-60°C for 5-10 minutes? Will Full & Lift degrade at this temperature? Will the mixture remain stable and not separate?
  2. I am trying to dissolve Tinosorb S (BEMT) at 3% concentration using SPF Protect Ultra™ at 15%. I heated the mixture to 50-60°C, but the Tinosorb S did not fully dissolve. Why is this happening, and how can I achieve full dissolution for 3% Tinosorb S?

คำตอบ

Formulation Questions Answered

Here are the answers to your formulation questions:

1. Full & Lift and Shea Butter with Heat

Heating Full & Lift with Shea Butter at 50-60°C for 5-10 minutes should not degrade Full & Lift, as it can withstand this temperature range. Shea Butter typically melts between 60-70°C, so 50-60°C is suitable for melting it.

However, Full & Lift is not soluble in oil. While the mixture might appear homogeneous when heated, it is likely to separate into layers as it cools down. This is because Full & Lift does not truly dissolve in the oil phase (melted shea butter).

2. Dissolving Tinosorb S (BEMT) in SPF Protect Ultra™

Tinosorb S (BEMT) is heat stable and can withstand being heated to 50-60°C for dissolution without degrading. Heating helps it dissolve more easily in the oil phase.

BEMT requires solvents like OMC (Octinoxate) to dissolve. SPF Protect Ultra™ contains OMC, which is why heating helps. However, at 3% BEMT and 15% SPF Protect Ultra™, the amount of OMC present in SPF Protect Ultra™ is limited, which restricts the amount of BEMT that can be fully dissolved (approximately 0.85% BEMT in this specific ratio, based on the SPF Protect Ultra™ composition).

To dissolve a higher concentration of BEMT, you would need to increase the proportion of suitable solvents in your formula. As previously advised, adding more OMC or LipidSoft Dry can help improve the solubility of BEMT.

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