Formulation Questions: Mixing, Texture, Solubility, Preservation, and Fragrance

Question

I want to mix the following ingredients:
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/penetration-enhancer-%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B9%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7/5987-dimethyl-isosorbide-isosorbide-dimethyl-ether.html:26gy3ht3]Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI)[/url:26gy3ht3] 3%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9B%E0%B9%8A%E0%B8%9B%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%94%E0%B9%8C%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/259-repair-activator-bifida-ferment-lysate.html:26gy3ht3]Repair Activator™[/url:26gy3ht3] Powder ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9B%E0%B9%8A%E0%B8%9B%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%94%E0%B9%8C%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/259-repair-activator-bifida-ferment-lysate.html:26gy3ht3]Bifida Ferment Lysate[/url:26gy3ht3]) 1%
[url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/anti-wrinkle/8295-ergothioneine.html:26gy3ht3]EGT-Max™ (Ergothioneine 0.3%)[/url:26gy3ht3] 1%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/anti-pollution-%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%81%E0%B9%8A%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%A0%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B0/1299-ectoin.html:26gy3ht3]Ectoine[/url:26gy3ht3] ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/anti-pollution-%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%81%E0%B9%8A%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%A0%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B0/1299-ectoin.html:26gy3ht3]Ectoin[/url:26gy3ht3], from Bio-fermentation) 2%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0/867-melatonin.html:26gy3ht3]Pure-Melatonin[/url:26gy3ht3]™ 2%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/emulsifier/247-satin-mousse-silky-cream-maker.html:26gy3ht3]Satin Cream Maker[/url:26gy3ht3]™ 1.5%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2/1001-ethylhexylglycerin-caprylyl-glycol.html:26gy3ht3]Mild Preserved Eco™[/url:26gy3ht3] ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B5/1001-ethylhexylglycerin-caprylyl-glycol.html:26gy3ht3]Preservative-Free[/url:26gy3ht3]) 1%
Water q.s.
Is this mixing method correct: 1) Mix [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/emulsifier/247-satin-mousse-silky-cream-maker.html:26gy3ht3]Satin Cream Maker[/url:26gy3ht3]™ with [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0/867-melatonin.html:26gy3ht3]Pure-Melatonin[/url:26gy3ht3], 2) Mix the rest, then add 1)?

Also, can you recommend using [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87/710-serum-base-plus-%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B1%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A1.html:26gy3ht3]Silky Serum Base Plus (Face/Eye, Oil)[/url:26gy3ht3] instead of [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/emulsifier/247-satin-mousse-silky-cream-maker.html:26gy3ht3]Satin Cream Maker[/url:26gy3ht3]? What percentage should I start with, and when should I adjust usage up or down? I want a "water-burst cream" feel. If this isn't suitable, are there other recommendations?

Why do the links for [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0/867-melatonin.html:26gy3ht3]Melatonin Forte™[/url:26gy3ht3] and [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0/867-melatonin.html:26gy3ht3]Pure-Melatonin[/url:26gy3ht3]™ go to the same page? I need clarification because I plan to make a hair serum and am confused about [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0/867-melatonin.html:26gy3ht3]Melatonin Forte™[/url:26gy3ht3] - the information tab says it's water-soluble, but the technical tab says it's only oil-soluble.

Another formula:
[url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99/7577-acacia-salicylic-acid-timed-release-water-soluble-powder.html:26gy3ht3]Acacia Salicylic Acid (Timed Release Water-Soluble Powder)[/url:26gy3ht3] 3%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/164-betaine-trimethylglycine-%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%99.html:26gy3ht3]Natural Betaine[/url:26gy3ht3] 3%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4/123-calendula-extract-%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%B9%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A5%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%B2-%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94.html:26gy3ht3]Calendula Extract[/url:26gy3ht3] (Water Soluble) 5%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/184-disodium-edta-2na.html:26gy3ht3]Disodium EDTA[/url:26gy3ht3] 0.2%
[url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/distilled-infused-water/6914-peppermint-water-%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9B%E0%B9%8A%E0%B8%9B%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%8C-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C.html:26gy3ht3]Peppermint Water[/url:26gy3ht3] q.s.
This formula is focused on treating [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/60-%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99:26gy3ht3]clogged pores[/url:26gy3ht3]. I want a liquid but slightly viscous texture, similar to Hada Labo. It will be packaged in a dark glass bottle with a dropper or a toner-style bottle with a small opening. Can you recommend suitable thickeners for this formula? I saw that [url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/distilled-infused-water/6914-peppermint-water-%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9B%E0%B9%8A%E0%B8%9B%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%8C-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C.html:26gy3ht3]Peppermint Water[/url:26gy3ht3] contains [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/34-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2:26gy3ht3]preservatives[/url:26gy3ht3], so I wasn't planning to add any, but should I add another [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/34-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2:26gy3ht3]preservative[/url:26gy3ht3]? If I want to add fragrance, which solubilizer should I use to dissolve the [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/319-%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A1:26gy3ht3]fragrance oil[/url:26gy3ht3] appropriately?

Thank you.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Formulation Advice

Formulation 1

Your proposed mixing method for the first formulation is not ideal. Satin Cream Maker should be dispersed in the water phase, and Pure-Melatonin should be added later, dissolved in a suitable solvent if necessary, avoiding heat.

To achieve a "water-burst cream" feel, you need a specific type of emulsifier. Neither Satin Cream Maker nor Silky Serum Base Plus provide this effect.

For a water-burst effect, consider using:

WaterBreaker™ (silicone-based)
WaterDropper™ (silicone-free)

These are emulsifiers used at 5-10% and require a specific mixing method where the water phase is gradually added to the oil/silicone phase at low speed. This will change the overall structure of your formulation.

Melatonin Solubility

There are two different Melatonin products available:

Pure-Melatonin™: A powder that is soluble in some oils and glycols, but not readily water-soluble.
Melatonin Forte™: A liquid form designed to be water-soluble/dispersible.

If you need Melatonin to dissolve easily in a water-based formula, Melatonin Forte™ is the more suitable option. If using Pure-Melatonin™ powder in a water-dominant formula, you will need to dissolve it in a compatible solvent first.

Formulation 2 (for Clogged Pores)

To achieve a liquid but slightly viscous texture like Hada Labo for your second formulation, you need a water-phase thickener. Suitable options include:

Sepimax Zen: Use at 0.5-2%. It creates a clear gel and is tolerant to salts and varying pH.
CreamThick™ (Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate): Use at 0.5-5% (at least 4% if used alone). It creates a milky white gel and is resistant to electrolytes.

Start with a lower percentage and adjust to get your desired viscosity.

Regarding preservation, even if Peppermint Water has some inherent properties, it is essential to add a broad-spectrum preservative to your formula for stability and safety. Mild Preserved Eco™ at 1.0-1.5% is a good choice for this water-based system.

To add fragrance oil to your water-based formula, use a solubilizer like Flora Solve™ Clear. Mix the fragrance oil with Flora Solve™ Clear (typically 2-5 parts solubilizer to 1 part fragrance) before adding the mixture to your main formula.