Formulation Questions: Serum, Cream, and Cleansing Oil

Asked by: fewruko On: April 26, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have questions about the following formulations:

Serum Formulation:

  1. Water 85.7%
  2. Vitamin B3 4%
  3. N-Acetyl-D glucosamine 4%
  4. Pro Polymer 1%
  5. Phenoxyethanol 0.3%
  6. PE-1 Aqua 2%
  7. Pentylene glycol 3%

Mixing procedure: Mix 1+2+3, stir, then add 4 and stir until it becomes a serum. Then add 5, stir, then add 6, stir, then add 7, stir.

  • Is this formulation okay, and is the mixing procedure correct?
  • PE-1 Aqua is said to be mixed in the oil phase. If the formula has no oil, can I still add PE-1 Aqua?
  • Can I use PE-1 Aqua together with Pentylene glycol?

Cream Formulation:

  1. Water %
  2. Disodium EDTA 0.1%
  3. Double Hyaluron Liquid 2%
  4. Vitamin B5 5%
  5. Fractionated Coconut Oil 5%
  6. Co-Q10 extra 1%
  7. Light Cream Maker 2%
  8. Sym-White™ 0.5%
  9. Pentylene glycol 3%
  10. PE-1 Aqua 2%
  11. Phenoxyethanol 0.3%

Mixing procedure: Mix water phase (1+2+3+4+9) and set aside. Mix oil phase (5+6+7+10) until combined. Pour the water phase into the oil phase and stir until it becomes a cream. Then add 8, stir until combined, then add 11.

  • Is this mixing procedure correct, and is the formulation okay?
  • When should I measure the pH?
  • If I need to adjust the pH after the cream is finished, can I add drops without weighing?

Cleansing Oil Formulation:

  1. Oilsify 15 15%
  2. Mineral Oil Light 70%
  3. LipidSoft™ Palm 14.8%
  4. Phenoxyethanol 0.2%
  • In this formula, can I use Mineral Oil Light instead of a heavier type?
  • Which is better between Fractionated Coconut Oil and Mineral Oil?
  • Can I omit LipidSoft Palm?

Answer

Formulation Feedback

Here is feedback on your serum, cream, and cleansing oil formulations:

Serum Formulation

Your serum formulation and mixing method are generally correct.

  • Mixing Method: Mixing the water-soluble ingredients (Water, Vitamin B3, N-Acetyl-D glucosamine) first, then adding the gel maker (Pro Polymer) to form the serum texture, and finally incorporating the preservative (Phenoxyethanol) and penetration enhancers (PE-1 Aqua, Pentylene glycol) is a suitable approach for this type of serum.
  • PE-1 Aqua in a Water-Based Formula: Although PE-1 Aqua is typically mixed in the oil phase, its description indicates it has oil-like characteristics and can be used as part of the oil phase directly. Even in a formula without a significant oil phase, it can be incorporated as described in your steps.
  • PE-1 Aqua and Pentylene Glycol: Yes, PE-1 Aqua can be used together with Pentylene glycol. They can work synergistically to enhance penetration.

Cream Formulation

Your cream formulation and mixing steps are correct, and the ingredients are compatible.

  • Mixing Method: Separating into water and oil phases, mixing each phase, combining them to form the emulsion, and then adding heat-sensitive ingredients like Sym-White™ and the preservative Phenoxyethanol is the correct procedure.
  • Sym-White™ Dissolution: Ensure that Sym-White™ is fully dissolved into the cream base by stirring or blending sufficiently. Undissolved particles can cause skin irritation.
  • Vitamin B5 Concentration: Using Vitamin B5 at 5% might result in a sticky texture. Consider reducing the concentration to 3% and adding other moisturizers, or explore using D-Panthenol Care (Pro-Vitamin B5, 100% Liquid) or Vitamin B5 Extra-Lite if available, which are processed to reduce stickiness at higher concentrations.
  • Measuring and Adjusting pH: You should measure the pH after the cream is fully mixed and has cooled down. You can adjust the pH by adding small amounts (drop by drop) of an appropriate acid or alkali solution, mixing thoroughly, and re-measuring until the desired pH is reached. Weighing the drops is not strictly necessary for small adjustments, but consistency is important if you need to replicate the formula.

Cleansing Oil Formulation

Here is feedback on your cleansing oil formulation:

  • Mineral Oil Type: You can use Mineral Oil Light instead of a heavier type. However, heavier oils like Mineral Oil Heavy or LipidSoft™ Palm are generally more effective at dissolving and removing makeup. Using a lighter oil might require more effort to remove makeup.
  • Fractionated Coconut Oil vs. Mineral Oil: Both Fractionated Coconut Oil and mineral oil are effective emollients and can be used in cleansing oils. Fractionated Coconut Oil is a natural triglyceride and provides a soft, smooth feel. Mineral oil is a petroleum derivative, is very stable, and non-comedogenic. The choice depends on your preference for ingredient source and the desired feel of the final product. For makeup removal, heavier oils (which could include a heavier grade of mineral oil or LipidSoft™ Palm) are often preferred.
  • Omitting LipidSoft™ Palm: Yes, you can omit LipidSoft™ Palm. However, it contributes to the makeup dissolving ability of the cleansing oil, especially for heavier makeup. If you omit it, you might need to adjust the percentages of the other oils or accept potentially reduced cleansing performance.