Serum Viscosity, ALA Sensation, Powder Dispersion, and BB Cream Whitening

Here is information regarding your questions about formulating cosmetics:

1. Increasing Viscosity of Water-in-Oil EZ Serum

If your serum made with Water-in-Oil EZ is too liquid, you can increase its viscosity. Water-in-Oil EZ is a water-in-oil emulsifier, and its thickness is influenced by the ratio of water to oil/silicone. Adding more water (and reducing oil) can increase thickness. Alternatively, you can use thickeners.

• Pro Polymer can be used to increase viscosity. It is a water-soluble thickener. You should add Pro Polymer to the water phase and ensure it is fully hydrated to form a gel before gradually adding the water phase to the oil phase containing Water-in-Oil EZ during emulsification. This method is compatible with Water-in-Oil EZ.
• Powder Cream (referring to cosmetic powders like Mica or Sericite) and Light Cream Maker are generally not suitable for thickening a water-in-oil serum made with Water-in-Oil EZ. Light Cream Maker is designed for oil-in-water emulsions, and adding it to a water-in-oil system can cause instability. Cosmetic powders are primarily for texture and coverage, not significant thickening in this type of emulsion.

2. Addressing Warming Sensation from ALA Ready™

Using Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA Ready) at 4% can sometimes cause a warming or irritating sensation, as 4% is at the higher end of the typical recommended usage rate (1-2% is often suggested to start). While Menthol can provide a cooling sensation, adding it might not resolve the underlying irritation caused by ALA and could potentially introduce its own irritation, especially on sensitive skin. It might be more effective to reduce the concentration of ALA Ready or incorporate soothing ingredients into your formula. If you choose to use a cooling agent, consider encapsulated forms like Cooling Green Beads or Long-Cool™, or a blend like CoCool™, which may offer a more controlled release or different sensation profile than pure Menthol Crystal.

3. Improving Powder Dispersion in Cream

To prevent streaks and ensure even powder distribution in a cream, especially in a BB cream containing pigments, you can use dispersing agents. These ingredients help the powder particles spread smoothly and evenly within the formula.

• LipidSoft Disperse is an oil-soluble dispersing agent that is highly soluble in pigments. It helps disperse pigments and powders in the oil phase and acts as a binder, ensuring smooth and consistent color and application.
• Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer is a water-based pigment disperser that helps distribute pigments in water-based formulations, preventing clumping.

Choosing powders that are coated (like Methicone Coated Mica Powder or Dimethicone Coated Sericite Powder) can also improve their dispersibility and feel in the cream. Proper mixing technique, ensuring powders are fully dispersed in their respective phase before combining, is also crucial.

4. Ingredients for Skin Whitening or Brightening in BB Cream

Several ingredients can be added to a BB cream formulation to provide skin whitening or brightening effects:

• Activated Resorcinol (4-Butyl Resorcinol) is a potent skin brightener that works by reducing melanin production. It can be irritating at higher concentrations, so it's often used with soothing agents.
• Phenylethyl Resorcinol (SymWhite 377 equivalent) is another effective and generally well-tolerated ingredient that inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production.
• Yeast Radiance™ provides a brightening effect, making the skin look more radiant without causing a pale appearance. It is known for being gentle.
• GlyciWhite™ is effective in counteracting melanin production and is also gentle on the skin.
• MelaninTerminate™ inhibits melanin production through a unique mechanism, leading to visibly clearer skin.
• GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine) helps in whitening, reducing dark spots, and improving skin hydration. It works well in combination with Vitamin B3.

The choice of whitening/brightening agent depends on the desired potency, potential for irritation, and compatibility with the overall BB cream formula.