Answers to Your Formulation Questions

Here are the answers to your questions regarding Squalane, soy lecithin, and Beta Glucan:

1. Squalane and Acidic Substances

Natural oils like Squalane are generally very stable and are not affected by the pH of the surrounding medium in a formulation. Oils themselves do not have a pH. The stability and effectiveness of acidic ingredients like Vitamin C or Alpha Arbutin depend on the overall pH of the formulation (specifically the water phase), but the Squalane oil itself will not be degraded or rendered ineffective by a low pH (e.g., below 3.5). The main consideration when combining oils with low pH aqueous phases is ensuring the stability of the emulsion, if one is formed.

2. Soy Lecithin (Powder) as a Liquid Emulsifier

Yes, soy lecithin can be used as an emulsifier to create a stable blend of oil and water phases even in a liquid formulation, without necessarily making it thick. Soy lecithin acts as an emulsifier (binder) but is not a primary thickener. To achieve a liquid consistency, you would use a lower concentration of soy lecithin, carefully adjusting the amount to ensure the oil and water phases are fully emulsified without creating significant viscosity. If you need to increase viscosity, you would typically add a separate thickener like Xanthan Gum.

3. Beta Glucan Solubility and Skin Feel

It's common to experience difficulty dissolving Beta Glucan and notice residue or pilling, especially with certain types like the liquid yeast extract form. This can indeed make makeup application difficult. While reducing the concentration can help minimize this issue, another approach is to use a different type of Beta Glucan. Water-soluble Beta Glucan powders, often derived from oats, are available. These forms dissolve clearly in water and are typically used at lower concentrations (e.g., 0.1-1.0%). Using a water-soluble Beta Glucan can result in a much lighter, non-sticky feel and better absorption into the skin, which should help prevent the pilling effect you've experienced and make it more compatible with makeup.