Formulation Review: Acne Treatment and Lightweight Nourishing Serum

Asked by: sleekorder.ka On: August 19, 2021 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like to review two cosmetic formulations:

  1. Acne Treatment: A formula for acne and clogged pores with the following ingredients:

    • Acacia Salicylic Acid (Timed Release Water-Soluble Powder) 3%
    • Natural Betaine 3%
    • Calendula Extract (Water Soluble) 5%
    • Disodium EDTA 0.2%
    • Skin-Barrier™ (Skin Barrier Restoration) 10%
    • Peppermint Water (rest)

    I want the texture to be liquid but slightly viscous, similar to Hada Labo. I am concerned that the high percentage of ingredients might affect the texture. Should I replace Skin-Barrier™ with L-Carnosine 1% or reduce the amount of some ingredients? Peppermint Water contains a preservative, so I did not add one, but should I add another preservative?

  2. Lightweight Nourishing Formula: A formula with a lightweight texture for nourishment with the following ingredients:

    • Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) 3%
    • Repair Activator™ Powder (Bifida Ferment Lysate) 1%
    • EGT-Max™ (Ergothioneine 0.3%) 1%
    • Ectoine (from Bio-fermentation) 2%
    • Ultrasomes Micrococcus Lysate 1%
    • Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free) 1%
    • Water (rest)

    I want the texture to be similar to the first formula, a slightly viscous water that can be patted onto the skin.

Answer

Formulation Review

1. Acne Treatment Formula

Your selection of ingredients targets acne and clogged pores effectively:

  • Acacia Salicylic Acid: Provides exfoliation for clogged pores with timed-release to reduce irritation. 3% is a good concentration.
  • Natural Betaine: Helps reduce irritation from Salicylic Acid and adds moisture.
  • Calendula Extract: Soothes acne-prone skin, reduces redness, and helps heal.
  • Skin-Barrier™: Supports the skin barrier, important when using Salicylic Acid. 10% is a high concentration for barrier repair and may affect texture.

Texture Concern: You are right that this combination, especially with 10% Skin-Barrier™, might be thicker than a slightly viscous liquid like Hada Labo. To achieve a thinner texture with some viscosity, you could:

  • Reduce Skin-Barrier™: Lowering to 7-8% could help texture while still providing barrier support.
  • Add a small amount of a thickener: A water-soluble thickener (e.g., Carbomer, Xanthan Gum) at 0.1-0.3% can create the desired liquid-but-slightly-viscous feel.

Skin-Barrier™ vs L-Carnosine: Replacing Skin-Barrier™ with L-Carnosine shifts focus from barrier repair, crucial with Salicylic Acid. Skin-Barrier™ is designed for intensive barrier restoration. Keeping Skin-Barrier™ (even reduced) is likely more beneficial for acne than replacing it. If you want L-Carnosine benefits, you could add 1% alongside reduced Skin-Barrier™, but this adds complexity and affects texture.

Preservation: Peppermint Water contains Phenoxyethanol 0.5%. If used as the base (>60%), the final Phenoxyethanol might be sufficient. However, for robust preservation in a water-based formula, adding a broad-spectrum preservative is highly recommended. Mild Preserved Eco™ at 1% is a gentle and effective option.

2. Lightweight Nourishing Formula

This formula includes excellent ingredients for repair, protection, and hydration:

  • Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI): Enhances penetration of other actives.
  • Repair Activator™ (Bifida Ferment Lysate): Supports DNA repair and anti-aging.
  • EGT-Max™ (Ergothioneine): Potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, brightening.
  • Ectoine: Provides cell protection, barrier support, and hydration.
  • Ultrasomes Micrococcus Lysate: Supports skin repair.
  • Mild Preserved Eco™: Provides necessary preservation.

Texture Concern: To get a slightly thick water texture, a small amount of a water-soluble thickener is needed, similar to the first formula.

Preservation: Mild Preserved Eco™ at 1% is within the recommended range and should provide adequate preservation.

Summary Recommendations:

  • For both formulas: Incorporate a small percentage (e.g., 0.1-0.3%) of a water-soluble thickener (like Carbomer or Xanthan Gum) to achieve the desired liquid but slightly viscous texture.
  • For the Acne Treatment formula: Consider slightly reducing Skin-Barrier™ (e.g., to 7-8%) if texture is a major concern, but keep it for barrier support. Add 1% Mild Preserved Eco™ for reliable preservation.
  • For the Lightweight Nourishing formula: 1% Mild Preserved Eco™ should be sufficient for preservation. Add a thickener for texture.

Remember to perform stability testing for your final formulations.