Formulation Review: Acne Treatment and Lightweight Nourishing Serum

ถามโดย: sleekorder.ka เมื่อ: August 19, 2021 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I would like to review two cosmetic formulations:

  1. Acne Treatment: A formula for acne and clogged pores with the following ingredients:

    • Acacia Salicylic Acid (Timed Release Water-Soluble Powder) 3%
    • Natural Betaine 3%
    • Calendula Extract (Water Soluble) 5%
    • Disodium EDTA 0.2%
    • Skin-Barrier™ (Skin Barrier Restoration) 10%
    • Peppermint Water (rest)

    I want the texture to be liquid but slightly viscous, similar to Hada Labo. I am concerned that the high percentage of ingredients might affect the texture. Should I replace Skin-Barrier™ with L-Carnosine 1% or reduce the amount of some ingredients? Peppermint Water contains a preservative, so I did not add one, but should I add another preservative?

  2. Lightweight Nourishing Formula: A formula with a lightweight texture for nourishment with the following ingredients:

    • Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) 3%
    • Repair Activator™ Powder (Bifida Ferment Lysate) 1%
    • EGT-Max™ (Ergothioneine 0.3%) 1%
    • Ectoine (from Bio-fermentation) 2%
    • Ultrasomes Micrococcus Lysate 1%
    • Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free) 1%
    • Water (rest)

    I want the texture to be similar to the first formula, a slightly viscous water that can be patted onto the skin.

คำตอบ

Formulation Review

1. Acne Treatment Formula

Your selection of ingredients targets acne and clogged pores effectively:

  • Acacia Salicylic Acid: Provides exfoliation for clogged pores with timed-release to reduce irritation. 3% is a good concentration.
  • Natural Betaine: Helps reduce irritation from Salicylic Acid and adds moisture.
  • Calendula Extract: Soothes acne-prone skin, reduces redness, and helps heal.
  • Skin-Barrier™: Supports the skin barrier, important when using Salicylic Acid. 10% is a high concentration for barrier repair and may affect texture.

Texture Concern: You are right that this combination, especially with 10% Skin-Barrier™, might be thicker than a slightly viscous liquid like Hada Labo. To achieve a thinner texture with some viscosity, you could:

  • Reduce Skin-Barrier™: Lowering to 7-8% could help texture while still providing barrier support.
  • Add a small amount of a thickener: A water-soluble thickener (e.g., Carbomer, Xanthan Gum) at 0.1-0.3% can create the desired liquid-but-slightly-viscous feel.

Skin-Barrier™ vs L-Carnosine: Replacing Skin-Barrier™ with L-Carnosine shifts focus from barrier repair, crucial with Salicylic Acid. Skin-Barrier™ is designed for intensive barrier restoration. Keeping Skin-Barrier™ (even reduced) is likely more beneficial for acne than replacing it. If you want L-Carnosine benefits, you could add 1% alongside reduced Skin-Barrier™, but this adds complexity and affects texture.

Preservation: Peppermint Water contains Phenoxyethanol 0.5%. If used as the base (>60%), the final Phenoxyethanol might be sufficient. However, for robust preservation in a water-based formula, adding a broad-spectrum preservative is highly recommended. Mild Preserved Eco™ at 1% is a gentle and effective option.

2. Lightweight Nourishing Formula

This formula includes excellent ingredients for repair, protection, and hydration:

  • Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI): Enhances penetration of other actives.
  • Repair Activator™ (Bifida Ferment Lysate): Supports DNA repair and anti-aging.
  • EGT-Max™ (Ergothioneine): Potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, brightening.
  • Ectoine: Provides cell protection, barrier support, and hydration.
  • Ultrasomes Micrococcus Lysate: Supports skin repair.
  • Mild Preserved Eco™: Provides necessary preservation.

Texture Concern: To get a slightly thick water texture, a small amount of a water-soluble thickener is needed, similar to the first formula.

Preservation: Mild Preserved Eco™ at 1% is within the recommended range and should provide adequate preservation.

Summary Recommendations:

  • For both formulas: Incorporate a small percentage (e.g., 0.1-0.3%) of a water-soluble thickener (like Carbomer or Xanthan Gum) to achieve the desired liquid but slightly viscous texture.
  • For the Acne Treatment formula: Consider slightly reducing Skin-Barrier™ (e.g., to 7-8%) if texture is a major concern, but keep it for barrier support. Add 1% Mild Preserved Eco™ for reliable preservation.
  • For the Lightweight Nourishing formula: 1% Mild Preserved Eco™ should be sufficient for preservation. Add a thickener for texture.

Remember to perform stability testing for your final formulations.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Calendula Extract (Water Soluble)
Calendula Extract (Water Soluble)
เครื่องสำอาง
Natural Betaine (Crystal)
Natural Betaine (Crystal)
เครื่องสำอาง
Disodium EDTA
Disodium EDTA
เครื่องสำอาง
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
เครื่องสำอาง
Ectoine (Ectoin, from Bio-fermentation)
Ectoine (Ectoin, from Bio-fermentation)
เครื่องสำอาง
L-Carnosine
L-Carnosine
เครื่องสำอาง
Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI)
Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI)
เครื่องสำอาง
Peppermint Water
Peppermint Water
เครื่องสำอาง
Acacia Salicylic Acid
Acacia Salicylic Acid
เครื่องสำอาง
EGT-Max™ (Ergothioneine)
EGT-Max™ (Ergothioneine)
เครื่องสำอาง