Formulation Review and Adjustment for Dry Skin

Question

I have developed three cosmetic formulas and would like to ask for advice regarding ingredient usage, compatibility, pH levels, and suitability for dry skin. The user is a 43-year-old woman with dry skin, wrinkles, freckles, dullness, and acne marks.

Formula 1 (100 g):

A: Active
1. Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate: 10 g.
2. CeraTouch™ Ceramide: 5 g.
3. FruitPeel™: 3 g.
4. Lemon Peel Bioferment: 2 g.
5. Plankton GP4G™: 2 g.
B: Base
1. Reservoir-Tech: 3 g.
2. 1,2-Hexanediol: 3 g.
3. PE1-Aqua: 2 g.
4. Phospholipid: 1 g.
5. Satin Cream Maker™: 1 g.
6. Distilled Water: Remaining amount.

Questions regarding Formula 1:

Can FruitPeel™ at 3% be used daily on the face without harm?

Formula 2 (50 g):

A: Active
1. Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate: 45 g.
B: Base
1. Reservoir-Tech: 1 g.
2. 1,2-Hexanediol: 1 g.
3. PE1-Aqua: 0.5 g.
4. Phospholipid: 0.5 g.
5. Satin Cream Maker™: 0.5 g.
6. Distilled Water: 1.5 g.

Questions regarding Formula 2:

Is 1.5 g of distilled water too little for dissolving and blending the base ingredients smoothly, especially if I intend to use Galactomyces up to 90%?
I would like to add 2-3 more active ingredients (around 1% each) to this formula. How can I reduce the amount of base ingredients? I tried to follow the website's recommendations for base ingredients but am unsure how to adjust them.

Formula 3 (100 g):

A: Active (Oil-based)
1. Perfect-C™: 5 g.
2. Wild Yam Extract: 3 g.
B: Base
1. MOIST24: 5 g.
2. 1,2-Hexanediol: 3 g.
3. Phospholipid: 2 g.
4. Satin Cream Maker™: 2 g.
5. Distilled Water: Remaining amount.

General Question for all formulas:

Should I be concerned about the pH level for any of these three formulas?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hello,

The team has reviewed the three formulas you submitted and provided detailed advice. Here is a summary of the recommendations:

General Questions:

Compatibility of PE1-Aqua and Reservoir-Tech: The team confirmed that PE1-Aqua and Reservoir-Tech are suitable for use in water-based formulas. For oil-based formulas (like Formula 3), PE1-Aqua and Reservoir-Tech should not be used for penetration enhancement. Your understanding is correct. In this case, using Phospholipid is a suitable alternative for helping ingredients penetrate the skin (and it must be blended or stirred until completely dissolved in the formula). For Formulas 1 and 2, which are water-based, the team did not indicate any incompatibility with the other ingredients you listed.
pH Concerns: The team stated that all ingredients in the three formulas have a neutral or slightly acidic pH. Therefore, there is no need to measure or adjust the pH. The pH of all formulas should be in the range of 4-7, which is suitable for the skin.

Recommendations for Each Formula:

Formula 1 (for dry skin with wrinkles, freckles, dullness, acne marks):
- The team advised that this formula is more suitable for normal skin than dry skin. For dry skin, you should consider adding oil or butter ingredients to the formula, at least 10%, to provide sufficient moisture. This will help improve the effectiveness of other benefits like wrinkle reduction or whitening. You can choose common natural oils like Olive Oil, Squalane, Jojoba Oil, or butter like Shea Butter.
- Using Satin Cream Maker at 1% may result in a relatively liquid cream texture. If the texture is too thin after mixing, you can add more Satin Cream Maker.
- FruitPeel™ at 3% concentration can be applied to the face daily without harm.
Formula 2 (for dry skin with wrinkles, late nights, focusing on Galactomyces):
- Similar to Formula 1, the team recommended adding oil or butter ingredients to increase moisture for dry skin.
- Regarding distilled water, the team advised that you can consider Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera) as the water base. You can dissolve other water-soluble ingredients directly in the Pitera and do not need to reserve 1.5 g of distilled water.
- The team also commented that using Pitera at a concentration of 40-60% of the formula is usually sufficient for effectiveness. Using a variety of ingredients is often more beneficial than using a single ingredient at a very high concentration.
Formula 3 (with oil-based actives):
- Your understanding that PE1-Aqua and Reservoir-Tech are not suitable for formulas with oil-based actives is correct.
- Using Phospholipid for penetration enhancement in this formula is the correct approach. It is important to blend or stir until the Phospholipid is completely dissolved in the formula.