Formulation Review and Adjustment for Oily, Acne-Prone Skin: Cleanser, Toner, Serum/Gel

Question

I have very oily, acne-prone skin with acne scars, blackheads, inflammatory acne, and clogged pores, and my skin is also sensitive. I would like to request a review and guidance on adjusting the following formulations: Foam Cleanser: Are there any issues with the solubility of Allantoin at the specified concentration? Is it necessary to include Vitamin B3 in a wash-off product like this? How can I make the foam feel softer? Toner: I am using a toner with Encapsulated Salicylic Acid, but I haven't seen a reduction in clogged pores. Is this ingredient suitable, or should I consider alternatives? I also included White Egg Enzyme. Is this ingredient difficult to work with for beginners? Serum and Gel Cream: I have separate serum and gel cream formulas. Should I combine these into a single product? I was considering using Silky Serum Base. Is this suitable for very oily, acne-prone skin? Regarding the recommended combined gel formula (containing Vitamin B3, Vitamin B6, Zinc PCA, Licorice Extract, MSM, AcneBee™, Pro Polymer/Pro Polymer Silk, Phenoxyethanol), it feels sticky and shiny on my skin. What is causing this stickiness? How can I reduce the stickiness? Would removing Glycerin help? Is Pro Polymer Silk a better alternative to Pro Polymer for a less sticky texture? Spot Treatment / Acne Scars: Is a separate spot treatment necessary in addition to the main acne treatment products? Can I add Copper Peptide to help with acne scars? Is Copper Peptide effective for existing scars, or is it primarily for wound healing after acne? Should I focus on treating active acne before addressing acne scars?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Here is a summary of the discussion regarding your acne treatment formulations:

You initially provided four formulas (Foam Cleanser, Toner, Skin Balancing Serum, Gel Cream) for review, along with your skin type (very oily, acne scars, blackheads, inflammatory acne, clogged pores, sensitive).

Based on your skin type and the ingredients, the following recommendations were made:

Foam Cleanser: Adjustments were suggested for Allantoin concentration due to solubility, adding BabyFoam for a softer feel, and removing Vitamin B3 as it's less effective in a wash-off product.
Toner: The formula with Encapsulated Salicylic Acid was reviewed. White Egg Enzyme was suggested to be removed if you are a beginner due to mixing difficulty. You mentioned that you haven't seen a reduction in clogged pores with this toner. It was noted that if BHA (Salicylic Acid) is not showing results for your clogged pores, it might not be the most effective ingredient for you, and exploring other options or consulting a dermatologist could be beneficial.
Serum and Gel Cream: It was recommended to combine these into a single gel formula. The use of Silky Serum Base was advised against due to the presence of silicone, which is generally not suitable for very oily, acne-prone skin. A new combined gel formula was proposed, focusing on ingredients for oil control, acne treatment, and skin strengthening (Vitamin B3, Vitamin B6, Zinc PCA, Licorice Extract, MSM, AcneBee™, Salicylic Acid EZ™ - although you later removed this, Pro Polymer/Pro Polymer Silk, Phenoxyethanol).
Stickiness Issue: You reported that the recommended gel formula felt sticky and shiny. This stickiness was identified as likely being caused by Glycerin in the formula. Removing Glycerin was recommended to resolve this. Using Pro Polymer Silk instead of Pro Polymer was also suggested as an alternative thickener that can provide a less sticky feel.
Spot Treatment / Acne Scars: You asked if a spot treatment was necessary and about adding Copper Peptide for acne scars. It was advised that Copper Peptide can help with wound healing after acne but typically requires additional stimulation (like micro-needling) to effectively treat existing acne scars. It was also recommended to focus on controlling active acne before concentrating on scar treatment.

We hope this summary is helpful. Please let us know if you have any further questions.