Formulation Review

Here is a review of each formula you provided:

1. BHA Toner (for clogged pores, night use, pH 4-5)

• Proposed Formula:

  • DI Water: 92.40%
  • Encapsulated Salicylic Acid 2%: 6.60%
  • Allantoin: 0.50%
  • Phenoxyethanol: 0.50%
  • Total: 100.00%

• Feedback:

  • The percentages add up correctly.
  • The intended pH of 4-5 is suitable for Salicylic Acid (BHA) efficacy.
  • Allantoin is good for reducing irritation, and Phenoxyethanol is a suitable preservative.
  • Important Note: The product description for Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Liquid, Timed-Release, Wash-Off) indicates it is specifically for wash-off products like cleansers. For a leave-on toner, you should use a Salicylic Acid type designed for leave-on applications.

2. AHA Toner (for exfoliation, night use 2x/week, pH 3.5)

• Proposed Formula:

  • Glycolic Acid 10% (Glycopure™ 100% Powder): 0.1%
  • Sodium Bicarbonate: 3%
  • DI Water: 96.9%
  • Total: 100.0%

• Feedback:

  • The percentages add up correctly.
  • Regarding your question about Glycolic Acid: Glycopure™ is 100% Glycolic Acid powder. So, adding 0.1% of this powder means your formula contains 0.1% active Glycolic Acid. This is a very low concentration for exfoliation purposes. Glycolic Acid is typically used at 5-10% for toners (with a pH of 3.5-4.0).
  • Regarding your question about Sodium Bicarbonate: 3% Sodium Bicarbonate is a significant amount. Adding 3% to a formula with only 0.1% Glycolic Acid will likely result in a pH much higher than your target of 3.5, rendering the Glycolic Acid ineffective. You would need to carefully add a very small amount of Sodium Bicarbonate solution while measuring the pH to reach 3.5.
  • Regarding using both AHA and BHA toners: As mentioned in the previous reply, using both AHA and BHA toners, especially at night, can be too harsh for the skin. It is generally recommended to choose one based on your primary skin concern or alternate their use on different nights.

3. Makeup Remover

• Proposed Formula:

  • LipidSoft™: 15%
  • Coco Wash™ (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate): 10%
  • MakeUp-Wash™ (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides): 10%
  • Coco Betaine: 5%
  • Encapsulated Salicylic Acid: 3.3%
  • Butylene Glycol: 5%
  • Disodium EDTA: 0.1%
  • Water: 51.6%
  • Total: 100.0%

• Feedback:

  • The percentages add up correctly.
  • As pointed out in the previous reply, mixing a high percentage of oil like LipidSoft™ (15%) directly into a water-based formula with only surfactants will likely not create a stable mixture. This formula will likely separate into layers. To make this formula stable, you would need to incorporate an emulsifying system suitable for cleansing products or significantly reduce the amount of LipidSoft™.
  • The use of Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (wash-off type) is appropriate for a makeup remover.

4. Serum for User (Oily/Combination, Pores, Dullness, Lines, Pigmentation, age 30, using Epiduo)

• Proposed Formula:

  • Lemon Peel Bioferment: 2%
  • Sea Kelp: 7%
  • Perfect-C™: 2%
  • Niacinamide: 5%
  • GlucoBright™ (N-acetyl-D Glucosamine): 4%
  • Zinc PCA: 1%
  • Licochalcone A: 1%
  • Alpha Bisabolol: 1%
  • Argireline: 5%
  • Matrixyl 3000: 5%
  • Repair Activator: 10%
  • SKIN-DEFENSE® V: 3%
  • Active Resveratrol™: 5%
  • Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
  • Phenoxyethanol: 1%
  • Water: 47.8%
  • Total: 100.0%

• Feedback:

  • The percentages add up correctly.
  • This formula contains a very high concentration of active ingredients. Combining this many actives at high percentages, especially while using a prescription product like Epiduo, significantly increases the risk of irritation.
  • Incompatibility: The product description for Perfect-C™ states, "Do not use with Vitamin B3, Zinc PCA in the formula." This formula includes Perfect-C™, Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), and Zinc PCA, which is a direct incompatibility and should be avoided.
  • SKIN-DEFENSE® V is oil-soluble, so this formula would require an emulsifier to mix properly and remain stable.
  • Recommendation: I strongly advise against using this formula as is. You should select a few key ingredients to target your main concerns and formulate a simpler serum at lower active concentrations. You must also address the incompatibility between Perfect-C™, Niacinamide, and Zinc PCA by choosing only one or using them in separate products applied at different times.

5. Daytime Formula for Mother/Grandmother (Age 50+, Anti-aging, Smooth Skin Feel)

• Proposed Formula:

  • Licochalcone A: 1%
  • Argireline: 5%
  • Matrixyl 3000: 5%
  • Repair Activator: 10%
  • Lift-Now™: 3%
  • SKIN-DEFENSE® V: 3%
  • Niacinamide: 4%
  • GlucoBright™ (N-acetyl-D Glucosamine): 4%
  • Tranexamic Acid: 3%
  • Alpha Arbutin: 2%
  • Sea Kelp: 5%
  • Zinc PCA: 1%
  • Alpha Bisabolol: 1%
  • Phenoxyethanol: 1%
  • Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
  • Water: 51.8%
  • Total: 100.0%

• Feedback:

  • The percentages add up correctly.
  • This formula also contains a very high concentration of active ingredients. Combining them all at these percentages might be overwhelming.
  • Compatibility/Stability: Achieving optimal pH for all the actives (Tranexamic Acid, Alpha Arbutin, Niacinamide, Zinc PCA) simultaneously can be challenging and might compromise stability or efficacy. SKIN-DEFENSE® V is oil-soluble, requiring an emulsifier for this water-based formula.
  • Lift-Now™ provides temporary tightening, suitable for daytime.
  • To achieve a smooth skin feel, you might need to add specific emollients or silicones.
  • Recommendation: Consider simplifying the formula by selecting the most crucial actives. Ensure the pH is carefully adjusted. Incorporate an emulsifier and consider adding emollients/silicones for the desired skin feel.

6. Nighttime Formula for Mother/Grandmother (Age 50+, Anti-aging, Smooth Skin Feel)

• Proposed Formula:

  • Resorcinol: 1%
  • LipidSoft™: 5%
  • Alpha Bisabolol: 1%
  • Pep-coll: 5%
  • Argireline: 10%
  • Niacinamide: 5%
  • GlucoBright™ (N-acetyl-D Glucosamine): 4%
  • Perfect-C™: 2%
  • Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
  • Phenoxyethanol: 1%
  • Water: 65.8%
  • Total: 100.0%

• Feedback:

  • The percentages add up correctly.
  • Resorcinol Type: It is crucial to clarify which type of Resorcinol you intend to use. Standard Resorcinol is not permitted for skincare. If you intend a skin-brightening ingredient, it is likely Activated Resorcinol™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol) or Phenylethyl Resorcinol.
  • Incompatibility: This formula includes Perfect-C™ and Niacinamide, which are incompatible. You should choose one or use them in separate products.
  • LipidSoft™ is oil-soluble, so this formula requires an emulsifier to create a stable product.
  • Recommendation: Clarify the type of Resorcinol. Address the incompatibility between Perfect-C™ and Niacinamide. Incorporate an emulsifier to stabilize the formula with LipidSoft™. Adjust the emollient content for the desired skin feel.

In summary, while you have selected many beneficial ingredients, careful consideration of compatibility, recommended usage rates, and formulation techniques (like emulsification and pH adjustment) is essential for creating safe, stable, and effective products. It is often better to start with simpler formulations containing fewer actives to minimize the risk of irritation and incompatibility.