Formulation Review: Cream/Lotion with Specific Ingredients

Asked by: mum141 On: December 01, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Based on the following list of ingredients, is this formulation usable? Are any adjustments or additions needed? Is heat required for this formulation? Ingredients: Macadamia Nut Oil, MOIST24 (Glycereth-26), Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide), Cucumber Extract, Avocado Oil, Macadamia Nut Oil, Sodium PCA 50%, Disodium EDTA, น้ำกลั่น, chlorphenesin / Phenoxyethanol (Microcare PHC eq.), Shea Butter Light Oil, GlucoBright™, Satin Cream Maker™.

Answer

Formulation Review

The list of ingredients you provided is suitable for creating a cosmetic emulsion such as a cream or lotion. It includes essential components like oils (Macadamia Nut Oil, Avocado Oil, Shea Butter Light Oil), a humectant (MOIST24, Sodium PCA 50%), active ingredients (Safe-B3™, Cucumber Extract, GlucoBright™), an emulsifier (Satin Cream Maker™), a chelating agent (Disodium EDTA), and a preservative (Microcare PHC).

Adjustments or Additions

Whether you need to adjust or add anything depends heavily on the desired texture, stability, and specific benefits you want the final product to have, as well as the percentage of each ingredient used.

  • Percentages are Key: The ratio of the oil phase to the water phase, and the concentration of the Satin Cream Maker™ emulsifier (recommended usage rate is 0.1-3.0%, with 1-1.5% often used for viscosity), are critical for forming a stable emulsion. Satin Cream Maker™ can handle up to 25% oil in the formulation. Ensure your total oil content (Macadamia Nut Oil, Avocado Oil, Shea Butter Light Oil combined) stays within this limit.
  • Consider the Target: Think about the skin type or concern the product is for. The current ingredients offer moisturizing, soothing (Cucumber Extract), skin brightening/anti-aging (Safe-B3™, GlucoBright™), and emollient properties. If you need additional benefits (e.g., stronger anti-aging, antioxidant, barrier repair), you might consider adding other active ingredients, ensuring compatibility with the overall formula.
  • Texture: The amount of Satin Cream Maker™ will influence the thickness. You can adjust its percentage within the recommended range to achieve your desired cream consistency.

Heat Requirement

Satin Cream Maker™ is a cold-process emulsifier, meaning it does not require heating the water and oil phases to high temperatures for emulsion formation. This simplifies the manufacturing process.

However, your formulation includes Shea Butter Light Oil. While it's a 'light' version, shea butter is naturally a solid or semi-solid at room temperature. To ensure it fully incorporates and creates a smooth, uniform oil phase before emulsification, you will likely need to gently warm your oil phase (containing Macadamia Nut Oil, Avocado Oil, and Shea Butter Light Oil) to around 50°C to melt the Shea Butter Light Oil. After the oil phase is uniform, you can proceed with the cold emulsification process by adding the oil phase to the water phase containing the dispersed Satin Cream Maker™.

In summary, the emulsifier itself is cold-process, but gentle warming of the oil phase is recommended to properly incorporate the Shea Butter Light Oil.