Formulation Review

This formula is designed to be a potent treatment due to the inclusion of numerous high-impact active ingredients.

• Texture: The base uses Reshape Gel to create a gel texture with memory properties. WaterSoft and Fractionated Coconut Oil are included to improve the feel and reduce potential stickiness, although with such a high load of actives, some stickiness is still likely, which the user has indicated is acceptable. Gold Glitter Mica is added for visual effect.
• Anti-Aging Focus: The formula incorporates a strong blend of anti-aging ingredients:
  • Peptides like Matrixyl 3000 and Quick-Coll are included to stimulate collagen and elastin production, improving firmness and reducing wrinkles.
  • DMAE is present at a high concentration (5%), known for its skin tightening effects. The user's tolerance for this level is noted.
  • Retinaldehyde, a potent form of Vitamin A, is included for its proven anti-aging benefits, working to reduce wrinkles and improve skin texture. ActiveProtec UV and Vitamin B3 (Safe-B3) help support its stability and reduce potential irritation.
  • Wrinkle Fill (Acetyl-Tyrosine) and Wrinkle Lax (Steviol glycosides) target expression lines and overall wrinkle reduction. Note that Wrinkle Lax is included at a higher rate than typically recommended, which should be carefully tested.
  • Pure-Adenosine, Ectoin, and L-Carnosine contribute to skin cell function, repair, protection, and overall skin health and resilience.
  • Wild Yam Extract is included, though at a lower percentage than typically recommended for its phytoestrogen benefits.
  • GABA Natural provides an instant firming effect and supports collagen/HA production.
• Whitening Focus: A powerful combination of whitening agents is used:
  • Safe-B3 (Niacinamide) and GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine) work synergistically to reduce hyperpigmentation and improve skin tone.
  • MSH White targets the reduction of melanin production signals.
  • Tranexamic Acid and 4MSK are included, known for their effectiveness in addressing dark spots and uneven pigmentation.
  • Sym-White (Phenylethyl Resorcinol) provides additional tyrosinase inhibition and antioxidant benefits.
  • ActiveProtec OX and Disodium EDTA are important for maintaining the stability and efficacy of these sensitive whitening ingredients.
• Supporting Ingredients: Butylene Glycol and DMI act as solvents and penetration enhancers, helping the numerous active ingredients absorb into the skin. Mild Preserved Eco provides preservation. Witch Hazel Plus Allantoin serves as the base, offering soothing and pore-tightening benefits.

Recommendations and Considerations

1. Ingredient Compatibility: The formula contains Sym-White and several amino acids (Wrinkle Fill, L-Carnosine, GABA, Creatine, Quick-Coll). Sym-White's description notes potential incompatibility with amino acids, which could lead to discoloration or reduced efficacy. It is crucial to perform rigorous stability testing to ensure these ingredients remain compatible and effective in the final formulation.
2. Potential for Irritation: While the user has a history of tolerating potent actives, the combination and concentrations of ingredients like DMAE (5%), Retinaldehyde (0.1% active equivalent from 1% ActiveRelease Retinal), Ampho-Glycolic (1.92% Glycolic Acid equivalent from 3% Ampho-Glycolic), and Wrinkle Lax (1%) could still cause irritation, especially in a single product applied overnight. Thorough safety testing, including patch testing, is highly recommended before scaling up production.
3. Mixing Procedure: Due to the diverse nature of the ingredients (some water-soluble, some oil-soluble, some heat-sensitive, some requiring specific pH), the mixing procedure will be critical. Ensure that ingredients are added at the correct phase and temperature as specified in their individual descriptions to maintain their stability and efficacy. Pay close attention to the mixing instructions for MSH White, Sym-White, Retinaldehyde, L-Carnosine, Matrixyl 3000, DMAE, Wrinkle Lax, Pure-Adenosine, Ampho-Glycolic, and 4MSK.
4. Stability Testing: Given the complexity and the presence of sensitive actives (Retinaldehyde, Sym-White, Tranexamic Acid, 4MSK), comprehensive stability testing under various conditions (temperature, light exposure) is essential to ensure the product maintains its quality, efficacy, and safety over its intended shelf life. The packaging should also protect light-sensitive ingredients.
5. Wild Yam Extract Concentration: The current concentration of Wild Yam Extract (0.5% of a 1% liquid extract) is very low compared to the recommended usage rate for the liquid extract (1-3%). The user may not experience the full benefits of this ingredient at this level. Consider increasing the concentration if its specific benefits are desired and it doesn't negatively impact formula stability or feel.
6. Fragrance and Mica: The inclusion of fragrance and mica adds sensory appeal but can also be potential sources of irritation for some individuals, especially in a product with many active ingredients.

In summary, this formula is a powerful blend with the potential to deliver significant anti-aging and whitening results. However, its complexity requires meticulous attention to ingredient compatibility, mixing procedures, and rigorous stability and safety testing to ensure a successful and safe final product.