Formulation Review for Oily, Acne-Prone, Sensitive Skin

Asked by: kondeemark55555 On: September 06, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have oily, acne-prone, sensitive skin that feels dehydrated internally and has a rough texture, with occasional acne. I am looking to create a formulation using Pure Aloe Vera Gel as the base, aiming for brightening, overall skin improvement, hydration, soothing sensitive skin, strengthening weak skin, and reducing occasional acne without clogging pores.

I proposed a formula including the following additional ingredients:

  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) 5%
  • N-Acetyl Glucosamine 4%
  • Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) 5%
  • Beta Glucan 10%
  • Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate 20%
  • Allantoin 0.5%
  • Bisabolol 1%
  • Acne Bee 5%
  • Proprietary Blend 3%

The total percentage of added ingredients is approximately 53.5%. I received feedback that some moisturizing ingredients (Vitamin B5, Beta Glucan) should be cut and Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate reduced due to potential heaviness for oily skin.

Could you please provide a detailed review of this proposed formulation? Specifically, I would like to know:

  • Is this formulation suitable for my skin type and concerns?
  • How does the high concentration of added ingredients, especially humectants and ferments, affect the texture and suitability for oily skin?
  • Is it better to split my goals into two different formulations (one for oil control/acne and one for hydration/soothing), as implied?
  • Which ingredients from my list help strengthen and support the skin barrier?

Answer

Proposed Formulation Review

Thank you for sharing your proposed formulation using Pure Aloe Vera Gel and additional ingredients.

You've included a total of approximately 53.5% additional ingredients (5% B3 + 4% N-Acetyl Glucosamine + 5% B5 + 10% Beta Glucan + 20% Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate + 0.5% Allantoin + 1% Bisabolol + 5% Acne Bee + 3% Proprietary Blend). This significantly exceeds the generally recommended maximum of 25% total added active ingredients in a base.

Texture and Suitability for Oily Skin

Given your skin type (oily, prone to clogged pores, sensitive, dehydrated inside, rough texture, occasional acne), this high concentration of added ingredients, especially humectants and ferments like Beta Glucan and Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate at high percentages, is very likely to result in a heavy, potentially sticky, and oily texture, as the previous staff reply indicated. It may feel too occlusive and could potentially worsen clogged pores for oily skin.

Ingredient Suitability for Your Concerns

Let's look at the ingredients you chose in relation to your goals (brightening, good skin, moisturizing, sensitive, weak skin, occasional acne, not clogging, reducing acne):

  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): Excellent choice for oily skin. Helps control oil, minimize pores, improve skin barrier, reduce redness, and offers brightening benefits.
  • N-Acetyl Glucosamine: Good for brightening, hydration, and can work synergistically with Niacinamide. Suitable.
  • Vitamin B5 (Panthenol): A good humectant and soother, supports skin barrier. However, at 5% in this mix, it contributes to the overall heaviness, as noted by staff.
  • Beta Glucan: Very hydrating and soothing, good for barrier repair. At 10%, it's likely too heavy for oily skin, as staff advised removing it.
  • Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate: Helps with skin texture, brightening, and hydration. At 20%, it's a high concentration and likely contributes to the heavy feel; staff recommended reducing the amount for oily skin.
  • Allantoin: Soothing and healing, good for sensitive skin. Suitable at the proposed concentration.
  • Bisabolol: Anti-inflammatory and soothing, derived from Chamomile. Good for sensitive skin. Suitable.
  • Acne Bee: Targeted for acne and oil control. A good ingredient for your concerns.
  • Proprietary Blend: Assuming this blend is suitable for your goals, its contribution depends on its composition.

Splitting the Formulation

Yes, based on your skin concerns and the nature of the ingredients, splitting your goals into two different formulations could be more effective, as you suggested and the staff implied.

  1. Formula 1 (Focus: Oil Control, Acne, Barrier Support): This could include ingredients like Niacinamide, Acne Bee, Allantoin, Bisabolol, N-Acetyl Glucosamine, and potentially Salicylic Acid (as recommended by staff for clogged pores) and Zinc PCA. This formula would aim to manage oil, reduce acne, and soothe irritation while supporting the barrier without being overly heavy.
  2. Formula 2 (Focus: Hydration, Soothing, Barrier Repair - Use as needed): This could include ingredients like Panthenol, Beta Glucan (at a lower concentration), Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (at a lower concentration), Allantoin, and Bisabolol. This would be used when your skin feels particularly dehydrated or irritated, but perhaps not daily if oiliness is a primary concern.

Alternatively, you could create a single, revised formula that is less heavy by significantly reducing or removing the ingredients staff recommended cutting (Beta Glucan, B5, reducing Galactomyces) and focusing on the oil-controlling and barrier-supporting ingredients.

Ingredients for Skin Barrier Strength

From your list, the following ingredients help strengthen and support the skin barrier:

  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
  • Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) - Note: Can be heavy for oily skin.
  • Beta Glucan - Note: Can be heavy for oily skin.
  • Allantoin
  • Bisabolol
  • Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate - Note: At high concentrations can be heavy.

Recommendation

Considering your oily, acne-prone, and sensitive skin, the original formulation is likely too heavy. It would be beneficial to follow the staff's advice to remove or reduce the heavier hydrating ingredients (Beta Glucan, B5, high percentage of Galactomyces) and focus on ingredients that address oiliness, acne, and barrier support without excessive richness. Creating two separate formulas or significantly revising the single formula based on these principles would be a better approach for your skin type.