Formulation Review for Oily, Sensitive, Acne, Yeast Rash Skin & Spray Formula

Asked by: zilingdaydreamer On: August 20, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

My skin is very oily but dehydrated, easily irritated, sensitive, easily red and stinging. I have yeast rash and itchy rash on my cheeks, with scattered acne (which appears to be from inflamed rash). I am not currently using acne medication. I want my skin to be stronger, as its condition has recently worsened from using various creams.

I would like to know if the following formulations are suitable for my skin concerns, if you have any additional recommendations, and please provide the mixing order for the ingredients.

Main Formula:

  • Squalane (Olive) - 1%
  • AcneBee - 1%
  • Shea Butter (Ultra Soft) - 1%
  • Mild Preserved Eco - 1%
  • L-Carnitine - 3%
  • Zinc PCA - 1%
  • Vitamin B3, Niacinamide - 10%
  • Calendula Extract - 5%
  • Aloe Vera Gel (Lite) - Remaining amount

Daytime Spray (to reduce skin heat):

  • Rose Water - 90%
  • Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate - 10%

Answer

Formulation Review for Oily, Sensitive, Acne-Prone Skin

Hello,

Thank you for providing your proposed formulations for your oily, dehydrated, sensitive, irritated, and acne-prone skin with yeast rash and itching. The ingredients you have chosen are generally suitable for addressing these concerns, aiming to strengthen your skin barrier and reduce irritation and oiliness.

Here's a review of the ingredients and a note on the formulation:

  • Squalane (Olive): A lightweight oil that moisturizes and helps improve skin barrier function, suitable for oily skin.
  • AcneBee (Royal Jelly Extract 10-hydroxydecanoic acid): Helps reduce oiliness and has antibacterial properties, beneficial for acne-prone skin.
  • Shea Butter (Ultra Soft): Provides moisture and helps repair the skin barrier. At 1%, it should not feel too heavy for oily skin.
  • Mild Preserved Eco: A gentle preservative to keep your formulation stable.
  • L-Carnitine: Helps control excess oil production and promotes gentle skin cell turnover.
  • Zinc PCA: Reduces oiliness, supports wound healing, and has anti-inflammatory benefits, good for acne and irritation.
  • Vitamin B3, Niacinamide: Excellent for strengthening the skin barrier, reducing redness and inflammation, controlling oil, and improving overall skin health. 10% is a high concentration that can be very effective.
  • Calendula Extract: Known for its soothing, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing properties, ideal for irritated and sensitive skin.
  • Aloe Vera Gel (Lite): A light, hydrating base suitable for oily and dehydrated skin, providing soothing benefits.
  • Rose Water: Soothes the skin and has mild antiseptic properties, good for a refreshing spray.
  • Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate: Helps to revitalize and hydrate the skin.

Important Note on the Main Formulation:

Your proposed main formula combines water-soluble ingredients (Niacinamide, L-Carnitine, Zinc PCA, Calendula Extract) and oil-soluble ingredients (Squalane, Shea Butter, AcneBee/10-HDA) within an Aloe Vera Gel (Lite) base. The Aloe Vera Gel (Lite) base is a pre-made water-based gel and is not designed to emulsify oil-soluble ingredients. Attempting to mix the oil phase into this base will likely result in the formula separating.

To create a stable product that combines both water and oil phases, you would typically need a suitable emulsifier, which is not included in your list of ingredients.

Mixing Order (Considering the Base Limitation):

Given the nature of the Aloe Vera Gel (Lite) base, you can incorporate the water-soluble ingredients into it. The oil-soluble ingredients would need to be handled separately or you would need to use a different base and add an emulsifier to create a stable product.

Here is a possible mixing order for the water-soluble components into the Aloe Vera Gel (Lite) base:

  1. Weigh out the Aloe Vera Gel (Lite) base.
  2. In a separate container, weigh out the powdered ingredients: Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, L-Carnitine, and Zinc PCA. Dissolve these powders in a minimal amount of purified water.
  3. Add the dissolved powder mixture to the Aloe Vera Gel (Lite) base and stir thoroughly until all powders are completely dissolved and the mixture is homogenous.
  4. Add the liquid Calendula Extract to the base and stir well.
  5. Add the Mild Preserved Eco to the mixture and stir until fully incorporated.

The oil-soluble ingredients (Squalane (Olive), Shea Butter (Ultra Soft), AcneBee (Royal Jelly Extract 10-hydroxydecanoic acid)) cannot be stably mixed into this gel base. You could potentially apply them as a separate oil serum, or you would need to reformulate using an emulsifying base or adding an emulsifier to create a stable cream or lotion.

Mixing Order for the Spray:

  1. Weigh out the Rose Water.
  2. Add the Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate to the Rose Water and stir gently until combined.

For a stable combined product with all your desired ingredients, you may need to consult a formulator to adjust the base and include an appropriate emulsifier.