Formulation Review for Skin Barrier Cream (Combination/Oily Skin)

Question

Please review the compatibility of the following formulation and check if any ingredients are excessively redundant. I would like this to be a skin barrier product for combination to oily skin with clogged pores. It should be a cream that can be applied day and night, with a gel-cream texture that is not too sticky and absorbs well into the skin.

Niacinamide 5%
N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine (GlucoBright™) 4%
Skin mimic 5%
beta glucan 5%
Glycosaminoglycans Complex 3%
L-Carnosine 1%
Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids 5%
TreMoisture™ (Trehalose) 3%
Prebio-care 3%
Ectoin 2%
Centella Asiatica Extract 1%
Repair Activator™ Powder (Bifida Ferment Lysate) 1%
Ethyl Linoleate or Vitamin F (LinOleic Acid) 5%
Tocopherol-vite 0.1%
Evening Primrose Oil 3%
L-Carnitine 3%
Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A) 0.2%
Bakuchiol 1%
1,3-Propanediol 3%
Aristoflex AVC 2%
Light Cream Maker™ 1.5%
Phospholipid 3%
1,2-Hexanediol 3%
Mild Preserved Eco™ 2%
WATER/AQUA Remaining amount

Thank you.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Review of Skin Barrier Formulation for Combination/Oily Skin

Thank you for providing your formulation for review. Your goal is to create a skin barrier cream for combination to oily skin with clogged pores, aiming for a light, non-sticky, easily absorbed gel-cream texture for day and night use.

Here is an assessment of your proposed formula:

Active Ingredients (1-18)

You have selected a comprehensive range of active ingredients that are excellent for supporting skin barrier function, providing hydration, soothing the skin, and addressing concerns relevant to oily/combination and acne-prone skin. Ingredients like Niacinamide, Skin Mimic, Beta Glucan, Ectoin, Centella Asiatica Extract, Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate), Ethyl Linoleate, L-Carnitine, Bakuchiol, and Licorice Extract all contribute positively to these goals through various mechanisms (e.g., lipid replenishment, anti-inflammatory, sebum regulation, microbiome support, antioxidant).

While many ingredients target similar outcomes (like barrier repair or soothing), they often work via different pathways and can be synergistic, enhancing the overall effectiveness. Therefore, there isn't significant functional redundancy among the active ingredients themselves; the combination could be quite beneficial.

Texture, Emulsification, and Stabilization Agents (19-23)

This is where the formulation might need optimization to achieve the desired light gel-cream texture.

You are using three different ingredients that contribute to thickening and emulsification: Aristoflex AVC (2%), Light Cream Maker™ (1.5%), and Phospholipid (3%).
Aristoflex AVC is a strong gelling agent commonly used for gel-creams. At 2%, it provides significant viscosity.
Light Cream Maker™ is an emulsifier and thickener.
Phospholipid also acts as an emulsifier and skin conditioner.
Using this combination of thickeners/emulsifiers at these percentages might result in a texture that is heavier, tackier, or forms more of a film than a truly light, easily absorbed gel-cream, especially for oily skin. It could potentially be simpler and more effective to rely primarily on one or two key texture modifiers optimized for a light feel.
Evening Primrose Oil (3%) is a beneficial oil, but for very oily skin types seeking a very light feel, this percentage might add a level of richness that feels less instantly absorbed compared to formulas with minimal or lighter oil phases.

Overall Assessment

Your selection of active ingredients is very strong and well-suited for the stated goals of skin barrier support, soothing, and addressing oily/acne-prone skin concerns.

The primary area for potential adjustment to meet your specific requirements is the texture system. The combination and percentages of gelling/emulsifying agents might need to be re-evaluated and tested to achieve the desired light, non-sticky, easily absorbed gel-cream feel suitable for combination to oily skin. Reducing the complexity or total percentage of thickeners/emulsifiers, or adjusting the oil phase (like the Evening Primrose Oil percentage), could help achieve a lighter texture.

Note: Formulation is an iterative process, and testing different combinations and percentages of the texture-forming ingredients will be crucial to achieve your ideal feel.*