Formulation Review for Whitening Cream

Asked by: chottanin888 On: April 15, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have the following formulation:

  • Ethyl Ascorbic acid 3%
  • oil Cream 3%
  • Vitamin E 2%
  • Z-White 2%
  • Glycerin 10%
  • Water 80%

Is there anything that needs to be added or removed? Is the efficacy good?

Thank you.

Answer

Formulation Review

Thank you for sharing your formulation. It includes several ingredients known for skin benefits.

Efficacy

The combination of Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Z-White provides a multi-pronged approach to skin brightening, targeting different stages of melanin production. Vitamin E adds antioxidant protection. Glycerin helps with hydration. This combination has the potential for good efficacy in improving skin tone.

Suggestions for Improvement

Based on the ingredients and typical formulation practices, here are a few points to consider:

  • Vitamin E Concentration: The concentration of Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) at 2% is higher than typically recommended for antioxidant benefits on the skin (usually 0.1-0.5%). While not necessarily harmful, it might contribute to a sticky feeling. You could consider reducing it to 0.5-1% for better texture while retaining antioxidant properties.
  • Ingredient Compatibility: The description for Ethyl Ascorbic Acid advises against using it with Vitamin B3 and Zinc PCA. Since Z-White is Zinc Glycinate, which is related to Zinc PCA, there might be a potential compatibility issue, although the description for Z-White doesn't explicitly state this. It's advisable to test the stability and efficacy of the combination or consult specific compatibility data if available.
  • Preservation: A water-based formulation like this absolutely requires a broad-spectrum preservative system to prevent microbial growth and ensure safety and shelf life. This is a critical missing component.
  • Chelating Agent: To help stabilize the Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, it is highly recommended to include a chelating agent like Disodium EDTA at around 0.2% in the water phase.
  • pH Level: Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is most stable and effective in a pH range of 3.5-6.0. You must check the final pH of your formulation and adjust it if necessary.
  • "Oil Cream": The term "oil Cream" is not a standard ingredient name. Assuming this is an emulsifier or a pre-made base, ensure it is suitable for creating a stable oil-in-water emulsion with the other ingredients and provides the desired texture.

In summary, the formulation has good potential for whitening efficacy but needs essential additions like a preservative and chelating agent, and potentially adjustments to Vitamin E concentration and pH for optimal stability, safety, and user experience.