Formulation Review for Wrinkle and Dry Skin Product

Asked by: brava034 On: March 29, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am formulating a product for dry skin, targeting wrinkles (especially under the eyes) for full face use. I am 30 years old. I have created the following formulation and would like feedback on its suitability and effectiveness:

  • Pure Aloe Vera Gel (Base)
  • MSH White™ (5%)
  • Ceramide Complex (CeraTouch™) (5%)
  • WaterLock™ (2%)
  • Vitamin B3 (Safe-B3™) (5%)
  • Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract) (1%)
  • Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) (10%)
  • Matrixyl™ 3000 (8%)
  • Pisum Sativum Extract (Pea-Ex™) (5%)
  • Glycosaminoglycans Complex (2%)
  • LipidSoft™ CC (10%)
  • Phospholipid (Hydrogenated Lecithin) (2%)

Please review this formula and provide recommendations.

Answer

Formulation Review and Recommendations

Thank you for submitting your proposed formulation for a wrinkle-reducing product for dry skin. Based on your goals (reducing wrinkles, especially under the eyes, for dry skin, for full face use) and the properties of the ingredients, here is an evaluation and some recommendations for improvement.

Your selection of ingredients includes several beneficial components for anti-aging and hydration. However, some adjustments can help optimize the formula for your specific needs.

Evaluation of Proposed Ingredients:

  • Pure Aloe Vera Gel (Base): This is listed as an "Ingredients Tester" base. While it contains Aloe Vera Extract, for a stable and effective finished cosmetic product with multiple active ingredients, a dedicated cream or lotion base designed for cosmetic formulations might be more suitable. It can better accommodate various ingredients and their specific mixing requirements.
  • MSH White™ (5%): This ingredient is primarily a whitening agent. Your main goal is wrinkle reduction and addressing dry skin, not whitening. Including this ingredient, especially at a higher concentration (5%) than the recommended maximum (2%), does not directly contribute to your stated primary objectives. Removing it would simplify the formula and allow for higher concentrations of ingredients targeting wrinkles and dryness.
  • Ceramide Complex (CeraTouch™) (5%): While the staff noted this is more for barrier support and irritation reduction, the product description explicitly states its suitability for dry, aged, and wrinkled skin. Ceramide is vital for a healthy skin barrier, which is crucial for preventing moisture loss in dry skin and improving overall skin health, indirectly benefiting anti-aging efforts. Keeping Ceramide Complex at 5% is recommended for its moisturizing and barrier-strengthening properties, which are relevant to your dry skin and anti-aging goals.
  • WaterLock™ (2%): This ingredient effectively helps prevent water loss (TEWL) and is beneficial for dry skin. The proposed percentage is appropriate.
  • Vitamin B3 (Safe-B3™) (5%): Niacinamide is a versatile ingredient that helps reduce wrinkles, improves elasticity, strengthens the skin barrier, and aids moisture retention. The proposed percentage is within the recommended range.
  • Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract) (1%): This extract supports skin cell renewal, strengthens the barrier, and increases hydration, contributing to anti-aging. The proposed percentage is appropriate.
  • Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) (10%): This peptide targets expression lines, particularly around the eyes. Using it at the maximum recommended rate (10%) is suitable for addressing under-eye wrinkles.
  • Matrixyl™ 3000 (8%): This peptide blend stimulates collagen and elastin. Your proposed percentage (8%) is higher than the recommended maximum (5%). It is advisable to use it within the recommended range for optimal results and stability.
  • Pisum Sativum Extract (Pea-Ex™) (5%): This extract helps protect elastic fibers and stimulates collagen synthesis, supporting anti-aging and skin structure. The proposed percentage is appropriate.
  • Glycosaminoglycans Complex (2%): This complex inhibits collagen-degrading enzymes, strengthens the barrier, and can help with hydration and dark circles. The proposed percentage is appropriate.
  • LipidSoft™ CC (10%): A suitable emollient for dry skin, providing softness and aiding spreadability. The proposed percentage is appropriate.
  • Phospholipid (Hydrogenated Lecithin) (2%): Aids penetration and offers moisturizing and barrier benefits. The proposed percentage is appropriate.

Recommendations for Improvement:

  1. Remove MSH White™: Since whitening is not your primary goal, removing this ingredient will streamline the formula and focus on your main concerns.
  2. Reduce Matrixyl™ 3000: Lower the concentration from 8% to the recommended maximum of 5% for optimal performance and stability.
  3. Add Vitamin B5 (Panthenol): As suggested by the staff, Vitamin B5 is an excellent humectant and barrier repair ingredient that will significantly enhance the formula's moisturizing capabilities, which is crucial for dry skin. Adding it at 3-5% is recommended.
  4. Consider a Different Base: For a stable and effective final product, consider using a cosmetic base (cream or lotion) designed to handle active ingredients and their specific mixing requirements, rather than the "Ingredients Tester" gel.

Revised Recommended Formulation (Example Active Ingredients):

Based on your goals and the ingredient properties, here is a suggested list of active ingredients and their percentages:

  • Ceramide Complex (CeraTouch™): 5%
  • WaterLock™: 2%
  • Vitamin B3 (Safe-B3™): 5%
  • Vitamin B5 (Panthenol): 3-5%
  • Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract): 1%
  • Acetyl Hexapeptide-8: 10%
  • Matrixyl™ 3000: 5%
  • Pisum Sativum Extract (Pea-Ex™): 5%
  • Glycosaminoglycans Complex: 2%
  • LipidSoft™ CC: 10%
  • Phospholipid: 2%
  • Appropriate cosmetic base: Balance to 100%

This combination provides a strong blend of anti-aging peptides, potent moisturizers, barrier repair agents, and skin renewal support, effectively targeting wrinkles and providing necessary hydration for dry skin. Remember to follow the specific mixing instructions for each ingredient during formulation.