Formulation Review: Gel and Serum for Brightening, Anti-Aging, and Acne
คำถาม
I have two cosmetic formulations and would like advice on ingredient compatibility, texture, and stability.
Formulation 1: A liquid gel formulation with the following ingredients:
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 10%
- GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) 4%
- Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) 10%
- WhiteCumin™ 2x (สารสกัดขมิ้น) 3%
- Ectoine (Ectoin) 2%
- Rice Vitamin 2%
- Oat Avenanthramides 2%
- Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate 1%
- Isopentyldiol 5%
- Oleanolic acid 1%
- Licorice Extract (Glabridin 40%) 0.10%
- Pure-NAC™ (N-acetylcarnosine) 1%
- shea butter water 5%
- WaterSoft™ 10%
- Disodium EDTA 0.02%
- Mild Preserved Eco™ (Ethylhexylglycerin) 1%
- น้ำกลั่น ครบ 100%
My questions regarding Formulation 1 are:
- Are all ingredients compatible with each other?
- Will using WaterSoft 10% + shea butter water 5% + Isopentyldiol 5% be sufficient to reduce the stickiness of the formula?
- Given the liquid gel nature of the formula, is Xanthan gum 0.50% sufficient to create the desired liquid gel texture?
Formulation 2: A formulation for addressing wrinkles, adult acne, and improving skin brightness, using Retinal + Vitamin C.
My questions regarding Formulation 2 are:
- The formula includes Trans-Resveratrol (Powder, 98%) 3%. Will using both Protec OX + Protec SQ help extend the quality of this ingredient better than not using them?
- Is Xanthan gum 0.7% sufficient to prevent insoluble ingredients from settling?
I am seeking expert advice on these points.
คำตอบ
Formulation Analysis
Here is an analysis of your two formulations based on the ingredients provided and general formulation principles:
Formulation 1: Brightening, Moisturizing, Oil-Free Gel
This formula aims to address dullness, provide hydration, and balance oily skin without using oils, in a liquid gel format.
Ingredient Compatibility: Most of the water-soluble ingredients in your formula are compatible within a typical cosmetic pH range (around 4-7), which aligns with the optimal pH ranges for Safe-B3, GlucoBright, Rice Vitamin, Oat Avenanthramides, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ectoine, and Disodium EDTA. Liquid Azelaic also works within a wide pH range (5-11). However, Oleanolic acid and Licorice Extract (Glabridin 40%) have specific solubility requirements (Oleanolic acid in laurocapram, Glabridin 40% in Butylene Glycol or Ethanol, not directly in water or oil). Using Isopentyldiol as the primary solvent for these might lead to solubility issues and reduced efficacy, as noted by the staff reply.
Reducing Stickiness: You are using WaterSoft (10%), shea butter water (5%), and Isopentyldiol (5%) for feel and emollience. While Isopentyldiol is a good non-greasy humectant/solvent, the high concentration of WaterSoft (10%) is generally not recommended for a comfortable skin feel and can feel sticky, as pointed out by the staff. A typical usage rate for WaterSoft is 2-3%. Shea butter water at 5% might also contribute to a slightly sticky feel for some skin types, although for dry skin, it might feel appropriate. The combination at these high percentages may not sufficiently reduce stickiness as intended.
Xanthan Gum for Gel Texture: Using 0.50% Xanthan Gum (clear gel type, smooth texture) is sufficient to create a liquid gel texture. It will provide some viscosity and prevent the formula from being completely watery, helping it adhere to the skin, as confirmed by the staff reply. The final perceived thickness will depend on your specific expectations for a "liquid gel".
Formulation 2: Anti-Aging, Acne, and Brightening Lotion
This formula targets wrinkles, adult acne, and skin brightening, featuring Retinal and Vitamin C.
Trans-Resveratrol Stability: Yes, including both Protec OX and Protec SQ will help extend the quality and stability of Trans-Resveratrol. Protec SQ is specifically effective at protecting ingredients like Resveratrol from degradation caused by UV light, while Protec OX acts as a general antioxidant protecting against free radicals, as indicated by the product descriptions and confirmed by the staff reply.
Xanthan Gum for Settling: Using 0.7% Xanthan Gum is sufficient to prevent insoluble ingredients from settling in the formula, as stated by the staff reply.
Overall Compatibility: This formula contains a complex mix of oil-soluble and water-soluble ingredients. While many are compatible, there are potential challenges:
- Phytosphingosine requires specific dissolution in Octyldodecanol with heat (80-90C) for optimal efficacy, which is not explicitly addressed in your ingredient list or typical mixing methods for such a formula.
- Similar to Formulation 1, Oleanolic acid and Licorice Extract (Glabridin 40%) require specific solvents (laurocapram, Butylene Glycol/Ethanol) for proper dissolution, which might be an issue here as well, as indicated by the staff.
- Trans-Resveratrol is not water-soluble and requires specific solvents like Ethanol or Ethoxydiglycol for dissolution and enhanced skin penetration.
- Pure-EGCG has low water solubility and needs to be dispersed, avoiding heat. The staff also noted that Pure-EGCG might not be necessary for dry skin.
- Pure-Adenosine also has low water solubility and needs dispersion, avoiding heat.
- The formula has a relatively high oil load (Perfect-C, LipidSoft Dry II, Tocotrienols, German Chamomile Extract, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Pure-Phytosterols, Phytosphingosine, Phospholipid, Light Lotion Maker), which might result in a sticky feel, as mentioned by the staff.
- Crucially, the formula appears to lack a dedicated broad-spectrum preservative system (Mild Preserved Eco was listed in Formula 1 but not here), which is essential for preventing microbial growth and ensuring product safety and shelf life, especially with a high water content. The staff reply also points out the absence of a preservative.
In summary, while many ingredients offer synergistic benefits, addressing the solubility challenges for certain components and incorporating a preservative are important considerations for Formulation 2. The feel of both formulas might be adjusted by optimizing the emollient concentrations based on the staff's feedback and your personal preference for skin feel.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Natural Bisabolol (Brazil Chamomile)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Disodium EDTA
Xanthan Gum (clear gel type, smooth texture)
Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™, e.q. Azeloglicina)
Rice Vitamin (Inositol, Vitamin B8)
Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate)
Shea Butter Water
Trans-Resveratrol (Powder, 98%)
Retinal (Retinaldehyde)
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (DPG, High Purity)
Phospholipid
Phytosphingosine SA
Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate
Pure-Phytosterols™
Ectoine (Ectoin, from Bio-fermentation)
Protec™ SQ
Hi-Glabridin™ Licorice Extract (Glabridin 40%)
WaterSoft™ (PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer)
Pure-Adenosine™
LipidSoft™ Dry II (Dicaprylyl Carbonate)
Pure-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract, 98% EGCG)
Isopentyldiol
Oat Avenanthramides (100ppm Solution)
Pure-NAC™ (N-acetylcarnosine)
Light Lotion Maker