Formulation Review: High Concentration Active Ingredients Gel/Serum with Kinetin

Asked by: keng.walinlug On: June 22, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing a gel formula containing Kinetin. I have two main questions:

  1. Regarding thickening agents for a Kinetin gel formula, is it necessary to use multiple types of gel makers (like Xanthan Gum, Pro Polymer, etc.) together, or can I use just one?
  2. I have proposed a formula with the following ingredients and concentrations. Could you please review its feasibility, especially regarding the high amount and variety of active ingredients? Is this considered "too much"?

    • Argireline 10%
    • Matrixyl 3000 6%
    • Sesaflash 3%
    • Ceramide 5%
    • Stabilize vitamin C LAA2G 10%
    • L-carnitine 3%
    • Phenoxyethanol 0.3%
    • Allantoin 0.5%
    • Glycerin 20%
    • Kinetin 0.1%
    • Water
    • Gel maker (to be determined)

Answer

Answer to Your Formulation Questions

Here are the answers to your questions regarding your gel formulation with Kinetin and the review of your proposed formula:

1. Thickening Agents for Kinetin Gel

Regarding the thickening agents for a gel formula containing Kinetin, you can generally choose to use just one type of gel maker from options like Xanthan Gum, Pro Polymer, or other natural or synthetic thickeners. Using a single thickener is often sufficient to achieve a gel texture.

However, as the staff mentioned, you can also combine different thickeners. This is typically done to achieve a specific skin feel or texture that a single thickener might not provide. Each type of thickener offers a different sensory experience on the skin.

So, you do not necessarily need to use all three together. You can select one based on the desired texture and characteristics, or combine them if you are aiming for a more complex or specific feel.

2. Review of Your Proposed Formula

Looking at your proposed formula with the following ingredients and concentrations:

  • Argireline 10%
  • Matrixyl 3000 6%
  • Sesaflash 3%
  • Ceramide 5%
  • Stabilize vitamin C LAA2G 10%
  • L-carnitine 3%
  • Phenoxyethanol 0.3%
  • Allantoin 0.5%
  • Glycerin 20%
  • Kinetin 0.1%
  • Water
  • Gel maker (to be determined)

As the staff indicated, this formula contains a relatively high concentration and variety of active ingredients. This type of formula is generally well-suited for mature skin that requires intensive care to address multiple signs of aging.

The feasibility of the formula and whether the amount of active ingredients is "too much" depends largely on your target user group. For younger skin, a simpler formula with fewer actives might be sufficient. However, for older skin, a more complex formula with higher concentrations of various beneficial ingredients can be appropriate to provide more comprehensive results.

It is important to consider the target audience's needs and expectations when formulating. While the concentrations you listed are within the typical usage rates for many of these ingredients individually (e.g., Argireline up to 10%, Matrixyl 3000 3-5%, Stabilized Vitamin C LAA2G 2-10%, L-carnitine 1-5%, Kinetin 0.1-0.2%, Allantoin 0.1-2%, Glycerin 1-100%), combining many high concentrations in a single formula means a higher overall percentage of active/functional materials. This can increase the potential for efficacy but also potentially increase complexity in formulation and stability, as well as cost.

Ensure compatibility between all ingredients, especially considering the pH requirements for ingredients like Stabilized Vitamin C LAA2G (pH 6.5-6.8 for stability) and L-carnitine (pH 3.5-8 for stability, optimal 4-7), and Kinetin (dissolves at pH above 7 or very low pH). The chosen gel maker must also be compatible with the pH range required by the active ingredients.

Overall, the formula appears feasible, particularly for a target market with mature skin, but careful consideration of ingredient compatibility and stability at the required pH is crucial during the formulation process.