Formulation Review: Moisturizing Cream for Very Dry and Sensitive Skin

Asked by: jezfrance13003 On: April 08, 2026 Product Type: Cosmetics Answered

Question

Good day,

Please I would like you to review these ingredients for stability for body and face cream, target for very dry and sensitive skin. Is there something I should remove or add to make it more moisturizing?

Ingredients:

  • DW: 45.7%
  • EDTA: 0.1%
  • Allantoin: 0.5%
  • Aloe Vera juice: 10%
  • Colloidal oat: 1%
  • Glycerin: 5%
  • Xanthan gum: 0.2%
  • Coconut Oil: 5%
  • Shea butter: 3%
  • Jojoba oil: 5%
  • Olivem 1000: 4%
  • CCT: 2%
  • Squalane: 2%
  • Dimethicone: 3%
  • Cetyl alcohol: 1.5%
  • Glyceryl stearate SE: 1.5%
  • Cholesterol: 0.5%
  • Niacinamide: 4%
  • Chamomile extract: 1%
  • Sodium PCA: 1%
  • Ceramide influx: 3%
  • Moist72: 2%
  • Bisabolol WS: 0.3%
  • Hyaluronic acid HMW: 0.2%
  • Tocopheryl acetate: 0.5%
  • Euxyl 9010: 1%

Thanks.

Answer

Your formulation is exceptionally well-suited for very dry and sensitive skin. It effectively combines barrier-repair lipids (Ceramides, Cholesterol, Squalane) with proven soothing agents (Bisabolol, Allantoin, Oat).

1. Stability & Texture Review

  • Emulsion System: The combination of Olivem 1000 and Glyceryl Stearate is a robust choice. To ensure long-term stability and a rich, creamy texture for very dry skin, I strongly recommend including Cetyl Alcohol (1.5%). It acts as a co-emulsifier and thickener, preventing the emulsion from being too thin.
  • Water Phase: Xanthan Gum (0.2%) is essential here to stabilize the water phase and provide a smooth application.
  • Preservation: Euxyl 9010 is a reliable broad-spectrum preservative. Given the high botanical content (10% Aloe Vera, 1% Chamomile), ensure your final pH is between 5.5 and 6.0. This range is optimal for both preservative efficacy and the stability of Niacinamide.

2. Enhancing Moisturization for "Very Dry" Skin

  • Occlusion: For extremely dry skin, the addition of Shea Butter (3%) is highly beneficial. It creates a breathable protective barrier that significantly reduces Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL).
  • Barrier Mimicry: Your use of Ceramides and Cholesterol is excellent. This "skin-identical" approach is the gold standard for repairing a compromised skin barrier.
  • Deep Hydration: MOIST72™ at 2% provides long-lasting hydration (up to 72 hours) by binding to the skin's surface, which is superior to standard humectants for chronic dryness.

3. Recommended Ingredient Adjustments

To ensure the best results with available high-purity ingredients, consider these specific selections:

  • Ceramide Complex: Use Cera-Flux V, which provides a balanced blend of Ceramides (NP, AP, EOP) along with Cholesterol and Phytosphingosine to mimic the skin's natural lipid barrier.
  • Soothing Agent: Instead of a water-soluble version, use Natural Bisabolol (extracted from Chamomile). It is highly effective at low concentrations (0.3%) for calming sensitive skin. Add it to the oil phase or during the cooling phase.
  • Oat Derivative: For enhanced soothing and hydration, Beta Glucan (Oat) is an excellent high-performance alternative to standard colloidal oatmeal, offering better skin penetration.

Suggested Balanced Formulation (100% Total)

Ingredient % Phase / Function
Distilled Water 41.2% Water Phase
Glycerin 5.0% Humectant
Niacinamide 4.0% Barrier / Soothing
Aloe Vera Juice 10.0% Soothing Base
Olivem 1000 4.0% Primary Emulsifier
Cetyl Alcohol 1.5% Thickener / Stabilizer
Glyceryl Stearate 1.5% Co-emulsifier
Shea Butter 3.0% Occlusive
Oils (Coconut, Jojoba, Squalane, CCT) 14.0% Emollient Blend
Cera-Flux V (Ceramide Complex) 3.0% Barrier Repair
MOIST72™ 2.0% 72hr Hydration
Sodium PCA 50% 1.0% Natural Moisturizing Factor
Natural Bisabolol 0.3% Anti-irritant
Preservative & Actives 8.5% Euxyl, EDTA, Extracts, HA, etc.
  • Note: Add heat-sensitive ingredients like Cera-Flux V, MOIST72™, and Natural Bisabolol during the cooling phase (below 40°C) to maintain their efficacy.*

Follow-up Replies

jezfrance13003
April 10, 2026 02:49
Question:

Good day,

Please I would like you to review these ingredients for stability for body and face cream, target for very dry and sensitive skin. Is there something I should remove or add to make it more moisturizing?

Ingredients:

  • DW: 45.7%
  • EDTA: 0.1%
  • Allantoin: 0.5%
  • Aloe Vera juice: 10%
  • Colloidal oat: 1%
  • Glycerin: 5%
  • Xanthan gum: 0.2%
  • Coconut Oil: 5%
  • Shea butter: 3%
  • Jojoba oil: 5%
  • Olivem 1000: 4%
  • CCT: 2%
  • Squalane: 2%
  • Dimethicone: 3%
  • Cetyl alcohol: 1.5%
  • Glyceryl stearate SE: 1.5%
  • Cholesterol: 0.5%
  • Niacinamide: 4%
  • Chamomile extract: 1%
  • Sodium PCA: 1%
  • Ceramide influx: 3%
  • Moist72: 2%
  • Bisabolol WS: 0.3%
  • Hyaluronic acid HMW: 0.2%
  • Tocopheryl acetate: 0.5%
  • Euxyl 9010: 1%

Additionally, I noticed that Dimethicone, Panthenol b5, hyaluronic acid and vitamin E Acetate were omitted from the previous response, could you explain why please?

Answer:

I apologize for the omission in the previous summary. Those ingredients are actually excellent additions for very dry and sensitive skin. Here is why they are important and how they fit into your formula:

Why These Ingredients Are Essential

  • Dimethicone: For very dry skin, preventing water loss is critical. Dimethicone creates a breathable, non-greasy protective film on the skin's surface. This "occlusive" effect helps lock in the hydration provided by your water-based ingredients.
  • Panthenol (Vitamin B5): This is a powerhouse for sensitive skin. It acts as both a humectant (drawing in moisture) and a soothing agent that promotes skin barrier repair and reduces redness.
  • Hyaluronic Acid: While you have other humectants, Hyaluronic Acid (especially the Standard or Large molecule versions) provides immediate surface hydration and a "plumping" effect, which helps relieve the tight feeling associated with very dry skin.
  • Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate): This serves a dual purpose. It is an antioxidant that protects your skin from environmental stress and also helps protect the natural oils in your formula (like Coconut and Jojoba) from going rancid.

Revised Formulation (100% Total)

This version integrates all your original ingredients into a stable, high-performance cream.

Phase Ingredient % Function
Water Distilled Water 37.0% Solvent
Water Panthenol (Vitamin B5) 1.0% Soothing / Repair
Water Glycerin 5.0% Humectant
Water Niacinamide 4.0% Barrier Support
Water Aloe Vera Juice 10.0% Soothing Base
Water Hyaluronic Acid (Standard) 0.2% Surface Hydration
Oil Olivem 1000 4.0% Primary Emulsifier
Oil Cetyl Alcohol 1.5% Thickener / Stabilizer
Oil Glyceryl Stearate SE 1.5% Co-emulsifier
Oil Dimethicone (Medium) 3.0% Occlusive / Protection
Oil Shea Butter 3.0% Deep Emollient
Oil Oil Blend (Coconut, Jojoba, Squalane, CCT) 14.0% Lipid Replenishment
Oil Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) 0.5% Antioxidant
Cool Cera-Flux V (Ceramide Complex) 3.0% Barrier Repair
Cool MOIST72™ 2.0% 72hr Hydration
Cool Natural Bisabolol 0.3% Anti-irritant
Cool Preservative & Extracts 10.0% Safety & Botanicals

Stability Tips

  1. Phase Mixing: Heat the Water and Oil phases separately to 70-75°C before combining.
  2. Cooling Phase: Add the Ceramide Complex, MOIST72™, Panthenol, and Natural Bisabolol once the emulsion has cooled below 40°C to ensure they remain effective.
  3. pH Balance: Aim for a final pH of 5.5, which is ideal for the skin barrier and keeps the Niacinamide stable.

Tags

Active Ingredient Stability Cream Moisturizing Sensitive Skin Skin Dryness