Formulation Feedback and Suggestions

Here is some feedback and suggestions for your two formulations, taking into account your goals and the previous response.

Formula 1: Acne, Redness, Scars, and Wrinkles

Your formula includes several excellent ingredients for addressing redness, scars, and wrinkles:

• Licorice Extract: Known for reducing inflammation, redness from acne, and oiliness.
• Copper Peptide: Beneficial for scar reduction, including acne scars, and reducing wrinkles.
• Pep-coll: Helps stimulate collagen production and reduce wrinkles.
• Kinetin: Offers anti-aging benefits by reducing fine lines and wrinkles and improving skin texture.
• Centella Asiatica Extract: Excellent for reducing wrinkles, tightening skin, helping with scars and redness from acne, and reducing inflammation.

Regarding your goal to reduce acne, Licorice Extract can help with oil control, which may indirectly benefit acne prone skin by reducing clogged pores. Lactic Acid, as an AHA, provides exfoliation which can also help with clogged pores and improve skin texture and tone, potentially helping with the appearance of acne scars.

Important Consideration: pH Level

The previous feedback correctly highlighted the significant impact of Lactic Acid 88% at a 10% concentration on the formula's pH. Lactic Acid is acidic, and a 10% concentration will result in a low pH. This is problematic because:

• Copper Peptide is most stable and effective in a pH range of 4.5-7.4.
• Kinetin dissolves and is stable at pH above 7 or very low pH.
• Centella Asiatica Extract is typically effective in the pH range of 4-6.5.

If the pH is too low (below 4.5), the efficacy and stability of Copper Peptide and potentially Centella Asiatica Extract will be reduced. Kinetin's effectiveness is also highly dependent on pH outside the range likely created by 10% Lactic Acid.

Recommendation for Formula 1:

1. Check and Adjust pH: It is crucial to measure the pH of your final formula. You will likely need to adjust the pH upwards using a neutralizing agent to be within a range that supports the stability and efficacy of your key ingredients, particularly Copper Peptide (aim for 4.5-6.5). Be aware that raising the pH too high will reduce the exfoliating effectiveness of Lactic Acid. A balance is needed, or consider using a pH-adjusted form of Lactic Acid like Lactic Acid (AHA) Neutralized.
2. Enhance Acne Treatment: To more directly target acne, consider adding Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide). It helps regulate oil production, reduce redness and inflammation associated with acne, and improve the skin barrier. It is effective in a pH range of 3-8 (optimally 4-7), which is more compatible with the desired pH range for your peptides and Centella Asiatica. Products like Safe-B3™ or Extreme-B3™ are high-purity options.
3. Pro Polymer: As noted previously, Lactic Acid is an electrolyte. You may need to increase the concentration of Pro Polymer (from 1% to 1.5-2.0% or more) to achieve the desired gel viscosity after incorporating all ingredients, especially after pH adjustment.

Formula 2: Brightening, Wrinkles, and Aging Skin (for Mature Skin)

Your formula contains a powerful combination of ingredients for brightening, reducing wrinkles, and improving skin firmness:

• Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate): An effective oil-soluble Vitamin C derivative for brightening and stimulating collagen.
• Argireline and Matrixyl 3000: Peptides known for their wrinkle-reducing effects, with Matrixyl 3000 also supporting collagen synthesis and skin elasticity.
• DMAE: Known for its skin tightening and firming properties, as well as antioxidant benefits.
• L-Tyrosine (Wrinkle-Fill™): Works well with peptides and DMAE to enhance wrinkle reduction and improve skin firmness and texture.

This combination is well-suited for addressing the concerns of aging skin, including wrinkles and lack of firmness.

Important Considerations:

1. Perfect-C™ and pH: Perfect-C™ is most stable and effective in a pH range of 5.0-5.5. It also requires the presence of Disodium EDTA at 0.2% in formulas containing water to help maintain stability. Your current formula does not list Disodium EDTA.
2. Argireline and pH: Argireline is effective in a pH range of 3.5-6.5.
3. L-Tyrosine and pH: L-Tyrosine (Wrinkle-Fill™) is acidic and will lower the formula's pH.
4. DMAE Concentration and Texture: As noted in the previous response, DMAE Liquid at 5% can reduce the viscosity of the gel. Your current Pro Polymer concentration is 1%.

Recommendation for Formula 2:

1. Add Disodium EDTA: Include Disodium EDTA at a concentration of 0.2% to help stabilize Perfect-C™ in the presence of water.
2. Check and Adjust pH: Aim to adjust the final pH of the formula to be within the optimal range for Perfect-C™ (5.0-5.5). This range is also suitable for Argireline. L-Tyrosine will lower the pH, so pH adjustment will be necessary after all ingredients are mixed.
3. Adjust Pro Polymer: Increase the concentration of Pro Polymer to 1.5-2.0% or potentially higher, as suggested previously, to achieve the desired gel texture given the presence of DMAE.
4. Enhance Firmness (Optional): While your current ingredients are already strong for firmness, if you wish to further enhance this aspect, ensure the pH is optimized for DMAE and the peptides. You could also consider exploring other firming peptides, but the current blend is quite comprehensive.

By addressing the pH compatibility and making the suggested additions and adjustments, you can optimize the effectiveness and stability of both your formulations.