Formulation with Butter Cream Maker: Papaya Enzyme, Whitening Actives, and Stability

Asked by: anon0563 On: October 19, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have purchased the following ingredients and would like to formulate two products using Butter Cream Maker™:

  1. An exfoliating lotion using Butter Cream Maker™, Papaya Enzyme (Papain), and Water.
  2. A whitening serum/lotion using Butter Cream Maker™, Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™), B3 (Niacinamide), n-acetyl glucosamine, and Water. I would prefer a serum texture that absorbs without stickiness for the second formula.

Could you please advise on:

  • Whether Papaya Enzyme (Papain) and Tranexamic Acid can be mixed together in the same formula?
  • The correct mixing procedure for each formula, considering the heat sensitivity of Papaya Enzyme and the use of Butter Cream Maker™?
  • Any other considerations for these formulations, such as preservatives or ingredient percentages?
  • Whether the ingredients in the second formula can achieve a serum texture?

Answer

Review of Your Body Lotion Formulas

Okay, I can help you review your two body lotion formulas and the question about mixing Papaya Enzyme and Tranexamic Acid. You've already purchased the ingredients, so let's look at how to best use them.

First, regarding mixing Papaya Enzyme (Papain) and Tranexamic Acid:

Papaya Enzyme (Papain) is an enzyme that works to exfoliate the skin by breaking down proteins. Tranexamic Acid is a whitening agent that helps reduce melanin production and is effective for addressing issues like melasma. These two ingredients have different mechanisms of action and optimal conditions (like pH and temperature) for stability and effectiveness. While it's not strictly impossible to formulate with both, it's generally complex to ensure both remain active and stable in the same product. They serve different primary functions, and for best results, it's often recommended to use them in separate formulations optimized for each ingredient. Therefore, mixing them directly in one formula is not typically recommended for stability and maximum efficacy.

Now, let's look at your specific formulas:

Formula 1: Exfoliating Lotion

Your formula includes:

  • Butter Cream Maker™
  • Papaya Enzyme (Papain)
  • Water

Based on the ingredients and your goal for an exfoliating lotion, here is the feedback:

  1. Heat Sensitivity: As noted by 'cosmeceutical7', Papaya Enzyme (Papain) is sensitive to heat and can be deactivated at temperatures above 40°C. Butter Cream Maker™ requires heating to around 70-80°C to properly emulsify. This means you cannot add the Papaya Enzyme while the mixture is hot.
  2. Mixing Method: You must prepare your lotion base using Butter Cream Maker™ and Water first, following the standard heating and emulsifying process. After the lotion base has been created and has cooled down significantly (ideally below 40°C), then you can add the Papaya Enzyme and mix it in thoroughly.
  3. Preservation: Any formula containing water requires a preservative to prevent bacterial and fungal growth. You must add a suitable cosmetic preservative to this formula.
  4. Percentages: You haven't specified percentages. You will need to determine appropriate percentages based on the recommended usage rates for each ingredient and your desired lotion consistency. A typical starting point might be around 3-6% Butter Cream Maker™, 0.1-1% Papaya Enzyme, with Water making up the majority, plus the recommended percentage for your chosen preservative.

Formula 2: Whitening Serum/Lotion

Your formula includes:

  • Butter Cream Maker™
  • Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™)
  • B3 (Niacinamide)
  • n-acetyl glucosamine
  • Water

You mentioned wanting a serum texture that absorbs without stickiness.

  1. Texture: Using Butter Cream Maker™ will result in a cream or lotion texture, not a serum. Butter Cream Maker is designed to create thicker, buttery or creamy textures. If you specifically want a serum, you would need to use a different type of base or thickening agent suitable for serums. Since you have already purchased Butter Cream Maker™, this formula will yield a whitening lotion.
  2. Ingredient Compatibility: Tranexamic Acid, B3 (Niacinamide), and n-acetyl glucosamine are generally compatible and water-soluble. They can be added to the water phase of your formulation.
  3. Mixing Method: You will follow a similar method to Formula 1. Combine Water and the water-soluble actives (Tranexamic Acid, B3, n-acetyl glucosamine, and preservative) and heat if necessary (avoid prolonged high heat for B3 and n-acetyl glucosamine, but brief heating for emulsification is usually fine). Heat the Butter Cream Maker™ separately in an oil phase (if you are adding any oils, otherwise heat the Butter Cream Maker alone). Combine the phases while heating and emulsify. Continue stirring as it cools.
  4. Preservation: This water-based formula also requires a suitable preservative.
  5. Percentages: You need to decide on the percentages for each ingredient. Common usage rates are:
    • Tranexamic Acid: up to 3% (for cosmetic registration)
    • B3 (Niacinamide): 2-5% (can go up to 10% with Safe-B3™)
    • n-acetyl glucosamine: 2-5% (often used with Niacinamide)
    • Butter Cream Maker™: 3-6% (for lotion texture)
    • Water: The remaining percentage to reach 100%, plus the preservative percentage.

General Method for Formulas using Butter Cream Maker™

  1. Prepare Water Phase: Combine Water and all water-soluble ingredients (like B3, n-acetyl glucosamine, Tranexamic Acid, and your preservative if it's heat-tolerant). Heat this phase to the required temperature for Butter Cream Maker™ (around 70-80°C).
  2. Prepare Oil Phase: Heat Butter Cream Maker™ (and any other oil-soluble ingredients or oils you might add) to the same temperature (around 70-80°C) until melted and combined.
  3. Emulsify: Slowly add the oil phase to the water phase while continuously stirring or homogenizing with a stick blender until a stable emulsion forms.
  4. Cool Down: Continue stirring as the mixture cools.
  5. Add Heat-Sensitive Ingredients: Once the mixture has cooled below 40°C, add any heat-sensitive ingredients (like Papaya Enzyme in Formula 1, or certain preservatives or extracts if you were using them).
  6. Final Mix: Continue stirring until the lotion reaches room temperature and the desired consistency. Butter Cream Maker™ formulas can take up to 12 hours to fully thicken.

In summary, both of your proposed formulas are possible as lotions using Butter Cream Maker™, but you must add a preservative to both and carefully manage the temperature when adding Papaya Enzyme to Formula 1. You also need to decide on the specific percentages for all ingredients in both formulas.