Formulation with Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Allantoin, and Niacinamide

Question

I want to create a Vitamin C formula at 10% using Ethyl Ascorbic acid and include Allantoin to help with irritation. Can this be done?

Is there a significant difference in effectiveness between 5% and 10%?

Also, can it be mixed with Niacinamide?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Re: Formula for Vit C 10% using Ethyl Ascorbic acid

Hello,

Regarding your questions about formulating with Ethyl Ascorbic acid:

Making a formula with 10% Ethyl Ascorbic acid and Allantoin: Yes, this is possible.
Adding Allantoin for irritation: Ethyl Ascorbic acid is not acidic like L-ascorbic acid, so it generally doesn't cause irritation. Therefore, adding Allantoin might not be necessary for this purpose. However, including Allantoin in the formula will not cause any harm.
Effectiveness of 5% vs 10%: We do not have specific comparative data on the effectiveness of Ethyl Ascorbic acid at 5% versus 10%. We recommend starting with 5%. If you achieve the desired results at this concentration, there is no need to use 10%.
Mixing with Niacinamide: Please avoid using Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) in formulas containing any type of Vitamin C.

Hope this helps!