Formulation with Pro Polymer 0.5%, Oil, and Actives
Question
I am using Pro Polymer at 0.5% to achieve a slightly thickened texture, not a firm gel. I want to add light oil or mineral oil to dissolve oil-soluble actives such as Sym White and Activated Resorcinol.
My questions are:
- What is the maximum amount of light oil or
mineral oilthat I can add? - What is the correct mixing order? Should I add the oil after dispersing
Pro Polymer, or should I mix the oil with water first and then addPro Polymer? - Can I mix this manually, or should I use a blender? If using a blender, what is the maximum recommended speed (RPM)?
Answer
Formulation Guidance with Pro Polymer 0.5% and Oils
Using Pro Polymer at 0.5% is suitable for achieving a slightly thickened texture, not a firm gel. To incorporate oil-soluble actives like Sym White and Activated Resorcinol, you can dissolve them in a light oil or mineral oil.
Amount of Oil
Based on example formulations provided for actives like Sym White and Activated Resorcinol when used with Pro Polymer, incorporating around 5% of a light oil or mineral oil is generally compatible with 0.5% Pro Polymer to create a serum or light cream texture.
Adding significantly higher amounts of oil might require the addition of an emulsifier to ensure the oil and water phases remain stable and do not separate, or increasing the concentration of Pro Polymer or another thickener/stabilizer.
Mixing Order
The recommended mixing method is to prepare the oil phase and water phase separately before combining them:
- Prepare the Oil Phase: Dissolve your oil-soluble actives (Sym White, Activated Resorcinol) in the light oil or mineral oil. Gentle warming (not exceeding 50°C, especially for Activated Resorcinol) can help dissolution if needed, but avoid excessive heat.
- Prepare the Water Phase: Disperse Pro Polymer in the water portion of your formula. Sprinkle the powder slowly onto the water while stirring.
- Combine Phases: Gradually add the water phase containing the dispersed Pro Polymer to the oil phase while mixing.
This method allows the Pro Polymer to hydrate properly in the water before interacting with the oil phase.
Mixing Method
- Initial Dispersion: When adding Pro Polymer to water, stir slowly for 3-5 minutes. Avoid vigorous blending at this stage immediately after adding the powder.
- Hydration Time: Pro Polymer takes time to fully hydrate. For best results, after the initial dispersion, it is recommended to let the mixture sit for a period (even up to 1 day) to allow the polymer to absorb water completely before final mixing.
- Combining Phases: When combining the water and oil phases, you can use manual stirring, but a low-speed blender or homogenizer is recommended for a smoother, more uniform texture.
- Avoid Over-Blending: It is crucial not to over-blend the mixture, especially at high speeds. The manufacturer recommends not exceeding 2500 rpm as this can damage the polymer structure and reduce the viscosity or stability of the formula.
In summary, start with around 5% light oil, prepare oil and water phases separately, disperse Pro Polymer in water first, and then combine the phases using gentle mixing, avoiding high-speed blending above 2500 rpm.
Related Products Mentioned