Formulation with Vitamin C (AA2G) and Salicylic Acid: pH Compatibility and Measurement
คำถาม
I am developing a cream formula with the following ingredients:
- Vitamin C (Liquid AA2G™) 5%
- Salicylic Acid (BHA) 1%
- Light Cream Maker™ 1%
- Propylene Glycol 40%
- Polysorbate 20 3%
- Water 50%
Can these ingredients be combined in a single cream formula? Also, when is the correct time to measure the pH during the formulation process, especially regarding the water phase before adding thickeners?
คำตอบ
Formula Feedback
Your formula includes:
- Vitamin C (Liquid AA2G™) 5%: According to the product description for Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G Stabilized Vitamin C), this form of Vitamin C is stable and effective in a narrow pH range of 6.5-6.8.
- Salicylic Acid (BHA) 1%: The product description for Salicylic Acid (BHA) states it is used for exfoliation and acne treatment. For Salicylic Acid to be effective as an exfoliant, it needs to be in a formulation with a low pH, typically around 3-4.
- Light Cream Maker™ 1%: This acts as your emulsifier and thickener. The description says it works in a pH range of 2.5-11, so it is compatible with both high and low pH environments in terms of its own stability, but it doesn't resolve the incompatibility of the active ingredients.
- Propylene Glycol 40%: This is a solvent and humectant. The description confirms its use as a solvent in cosmetics and that it can be used to dissolve ingredients like Salicylic Acid.
- Polysorbate 20 3%: This is a solubilizer/emulsifier.
- Water 50%: The base of your cream.
The fundamental problem is that you cannot have both Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) stable and effective at pH 6.5-6.8 and Salicylic Acid effective at pH 3-4 in the same product. If you formulate at a low pH for Salicylic Acid, the AA-2G will degrade quickly. If you formulate at a higher pH for AA-2G, the Salicylic Acid will be much less effective for exfoliation and acne treatment.
Mixing Instructions
Given the incompatibility issue, it is not recommended to mix these ingredients together in a single formula as proposed. The resulting product would likely be unstable and ineffective for at least one of the key active ingredients.
Recommendations for a Beginner
- Separate Formulas: As suggested in the conversation you shared, the best approach is to create two separate products:
- One product for skin whitening using Vitamin C (AA2G) formulated at its optimal pH of 6.5-6.8.
- A separate product (like a toner or serum) for acne and exfoliation using Salicylic Acid formulated at its optimal low pH (around 3-4).
- pH Measurement: As discussed in the conversation, you should measure the pH of your water phase before combining it with the oil phase (if any) and ideally before adding thickeners that create a gel, as this pH will be the final pH of your product. Use a reliable pH meter for accuracy.
- Ingredient Research: Always research the optimal pH range and compatibility of all your ingredients before creating a formula. This is crucial for the stability, effectiveness, and safety of your product.
- Start Simple: As a beginner, start with simpler formulas that have fewer active ingredients and known compatibilities.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Propylene Glycol (USP)
Light Cream Maker™
Salicylic Acid (BHA, Pharma Grade)
Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20)